The Real California

I spent MLK weekend in Fresno visiting an old college friend.  The drive to Fresno is about four hours, and takes you to a completely different world than to which we are accustomed in Southern California or the Bay Area.  We tend to be dismissive of this part of the state, but there is much that the San Joaquin Valley offers the visitor.  For better or for worse, that bag of goodies you have snagged at Whole Foods or Trader Joe's most likely had its origins in this region, the true bread basket (or gift basket?) of America.  Fresno County is the largest agricultural county in the nation; its neighbor, Tulare County, is number two.

 

In the coming weeks there I will share some stories about small towns and neighborhoods that are trying to reclaim their heritage; the costs resulting from rampant and unchecked development; and how you can enjoy the endless bounty that makes the San Joaquin Valley an enriching place to visit.  I'll start with Fresno, once a small 19th century train stop that has become the fifth largest city in California.

 

One area that has made a strong comeback for 20 years is Fresno's Tower District.  Built around the 70 year old Tower Theater on Olive and Wishon, driving through this neighborhood is like going back to the 1950s.  Old retro storefronts and small shops and restaurants beckon you to recall a time when this neighborhood was considered the outskirts of Fresno.  As Fresno's developers pushed the town's city limits farther and farther north, "the Tower" fell into decline during the 1960s and 1970s, but once the Tower Theater reopened in 1978, residents and businesses returned.  Full of American Craftsman and California Bungalows, the Tower reminds you of a time when the Central Valley was full of charming towns that exuded Americana, not McMansions.  When walking around the area Friday night, I was shocked to see a vegan restaurant on Van Ness Avenue, so the Tower now truly offers something for everyone.  But don't dismiss the vintage clothing, used bookstores, high-end dining spots, and music stores!

 

There are other Fresno neighborhoods worth exploring:  Old Fig Garden is full of old mansions that host a vibrant "Christmas Tree Lane" during the holidays; Sunnyside is full of old ranch houses and is a gateway to the 60 mile long Blossom Trail; Huntington Boulevard is full of stately homes; Fulton Mall, the main shopping and business street until the 1950s, is now a sad pedestrian mall that is a reminder of what can result from poor urban planning.  Then there's downtown Fresno, a wonderful collection of old 20th century architecture that has steeply fallen into decline; many of the old charming buildings are now abandoned and are now threated with demolition.  Stay tuned: I'll share with you the stories of the once decadent Chinatown; an attempt to build a Little Armenia; one of many villages so small you can't find it on a map; where to hunt antiques; and the ravages of McMansion mania.

 

Fresno is often thought as a place to pass through on your way to Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and Sequoia National Parks, but it is worth spending a little time there to discover its hidden treasures.