The Little Red House That Dares in Sofia

On the south side of Sofia’s city center is an old red house that stands out on a small side street.  The Red House, once home to one of Bulgaria’s leading sculptors, had been in disrepair for years.  But now Andrey Nikolov’s beloved home is a cultural center, art gallery, café, and hotel.

Several non-profit foundations have contributed to the Red House over the years, and the results are bountiful.  For example, the eponymous Center for Culture and Debate hosts a variety of programs that offer an edge unmatched in Bulgaria.  Its cozy theater hosts symposia, plays, and films that push artistic and intellectual limits; galleries show art that probably would not have opportunity to show elsewhere; and the basement level café offers attendees time to debate what they had just seen.

This month, partly as a reaction to the Bulgarian Orthodox Church proclamations against homosexuality earlier this year, The Red House’s agenda for December is fixated on GLBT issues.   Last month offered debates on capitalism and institutions for children with disabilities.  You may disagree with the politics or not get the art, but the fact that the Red House offers such a venue to those with such a voice.

Best of all, a quiet, discreet bed and breakfast is above all the galleries.  I stayed there during my time in Sofia and I recommend it for a few reasons.  The location is great, and the rooms are quiet.  But when I travel, I like my money to go directly to locals.  And forget about “green hotels” and eco-friendly resorts; the most “green” option is to stay in one’s home or in a place like the Red House that consumes minimal of resources.  Finally, in Sofia, when you stay at the Red House, you are supporting the arts and debate.  Plus the red satin sheets and duvets are a guilty pleasure!