The Hanging Gardens of . . .
Nov 20, 2009
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Yerevan.
Yes, that's right. The New York times just covered the opening of the Cafesjian Center for the Arts in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia. This US$40 million art center sits on top of the Cascade, an ostentatious yet delightful structure that sums up Armenia. As true with any nationality, being part Armenian, I had to visit the ancestral homeland, so I've done so, twice. And that was enough. But one of the best features about Yerevan is the Cascade: a decadent, grandiose temple mixing Soviet chic with Art Deco ornaments--and it works!
The Cascade shares Yerevan's bizarre history, which overnight transformed from village to a capital city in the 1920s. Conceived in the 1930s as the party pad for the Soviet bosses, the Cascade's construction did not start until the 1970s. A Russian scientist once told me that during Soviet times, Armenia was the Hawaii of the USSR: an assignment to Yerevan was a plum job, and Russians loved vacationing in Armenia to escape the brutal Russian cold. I suppose the Cascade would be the Soviet answer to Diamond Head.
If you ever visit Yerevan--and you should if you're of Armenian heritage or love visiting important religious historical sites--the Cascade is the perfect place to spend a couple hours, day or night. It's a thriving example of a central point for locals and tourists to meet, and provides some much needed green space for Yerevan's 1.1 million residents. Endless flower beds, curious architectural features, and artificial waterfalls grace the Cascade. Quirks aside, it's a great example of what a city can offer to give everyone a break from the dust, noise, and frenzy . . . and Yerevan needs it. Half of the buildings in Yerevan were never finished, and the other half deteriorate quickly as soon as they open.
The climb up is worth it. When I last visited in 2003, the only option was stairs, but now escalators can drag up the weary . . . and once you reach the top, you are treated to a spectacular view of greater Yerevan, and on a clear day, Mount Ararat. And now, the Cafesjian Center, taking over the floor plan envisioned by the Cascade's original architect, offers art galleries, a jazz bar, and a restaurant.The Cafesjian Center is a sharp contrast from other museums in Yerevan, which suffer from lack of funds, indifference, and shoddy conditions. It also symbolizes the tragedy unfolding in this country of 3 million; a small sliver of the country lives lavishly, obliviously driving Hummers and consuming without a care about their nation's condition; and then you have the vast majority that suffers, barely able to eke out a living.
For those that have visited the Cafesjian Center, we're curious to hear about your impressions.
