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Fresno Stories: Don’t Always Believe the Media

Leon Kaye — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 23:37:06 +0000

Being half Armenian, I loved William Soroyan’s stories, though sometimes I think that his family has nothing on ours. Spending a weekend in Fresno, from which my family comes, made me think of a story about which my aunt reminded me when I visited before the holidays. I plan on sharing some others from time to time.

My grandparents moved from Detroit to Fresno because my father had respiratory problems; the cure back then was not Claritin or Benadryl, but to “move to Arizona or California.” The family already had cousins in Fresno, and the city of Detroit bought the family’s Hamilton Avenue house at a nice price to build a freeway. So Fresno it was, so that my father could breathe.

The Kayes moved to Jensen and Cedar in Calwa, a rough community south of Fresno, now just off of CA-41. Calwa was not a great place to grow up. But my grandparents could make a decent living by opening a grocery store, adjacent to the house they had bought for the family.

Crime was a problem even then. One day, a customer walked in and asked for a pound of a bologna. My grandfather, who was probably in his 70s by then, turned around to slice the meat. The man put a gun to my grandfather’s head and demanded all the cash in the drawer.

To which my grandfather responded by grabbing a huge knife, turned and put the tip on the ruffian’s neck, and growled, “You son of a bitch, get the hell out of my store!”

The man turned around and indeed, ran the hell out of Kaye’s Market, which was probably the best decision he made that day.

Later that evening, a local radio station called my grandparents to ask how my grandfather was doing. My aunt answered and said, “Oh he’s just fine and resting now.”

The next day, the radio station featured the bungled robbery attempt at Kaye’s Market, with the announcer bellowing that . . . “and after the incident, Mr. Kaye was still in quite a state of shock!”

“I learned then,” my aunt told me, “that I could never trust the media.”

Wise words indeed. Though I hope you believe what I share on this site.

LK/GGP

Biotech Healing in San Joaquin Valley

Leon Kaye — Sun, 04 Apr 2010 18:41:22 +0000

Much has been made of the San Joaquin Valley's water problems. Too many farms did not get the water they needed, which destroyed their owners' and workers' livelihoods. Of course, there is plenty of water underground; the problem is that it has been poisoned with toxins such as selenium, boron, and other mineral salts. Much of this farmland, centered in west Fresno County has been lost because of the contamination, but there could be a clean tech solution on the way.

A Fresno County farmer, John Diener, and a Colorado biotech firm, New Sky Energy, are partnering in finding a solution that solves a few problems: providing fresh water for irrigation, removing this toxic water, and providing revenue that can offset the price of desalinisation, which still is too pricey and energy intensive to implement on a wide scale.

New Sky's technology will allow about 200 gallons a minute to be cleaned and filtered. Several tons of salts are expected to be removed from the water, which Diener in turn can turn around and sell to companies that can process it for plastics and other industrial uses. The federal government estimates that to clean up all this contaminated land will cost about $2.7 billion. New Sky's process will cost about $2500 per acre-foot (about 326,000 gallons) of water; with the sale of these removed chemicals, the cost could dip to about $300 an acre-foot.

Will this work? Even Mr. Diener is not entirely sure. Desalinisation schemes have been tried in the past, only to have failed. I have seen comments stating that this is just another wasteful government scheme. Environmentalists pooh-pooh this as not going far enough? Is this a huge project? No? Should it be pursued? Absolutely.

We can slam the San Joaquin Valley all we want for the environmental degradation that has occurred over the past couple generations. Of course, the same people that often sneer at our valley cousins are also the same ones who coo and gush over the organic produce in Santa Cruz and Santa Monica . . . which often comes from . . . Fresno. Viewing these farms as just one big polluting agribusiness monstrosity is short-sighted; there are many family-owned farms here that grow spectacular crops. And finally, I don't see an alternative. Should we just throw up our hands and have our produce come from Mexico, where we have absolutely no oversight, while using more and more fuel that would be required to ship all these crops from south of the border?

To those that just see New Sky's work as big government, my suggestion would be to talk to farmers like John Diener. He has worked on water issues for years, and has served on the board of the Westlands Farm District. Desalinisation and other clean tech processes are becoming more cost-effective, necessary for them to gain wider traction. If this project succeeds, more farmers will be interested, and more people will win. People always listen to their peers. And hopefully, more people will be employed.

The best way to solve problems like this water contamination issue is to engage farmers like Diener, and offer them a solution. With the water shortages confronting California, ideas like New Sky's have got to be considered and researched. Less sanctimonious banter on one side, and a receptive mind to new ideas on the other, will help heal this region that is so important to California's economy and way of life.

Happy Easter: Ovsanna Kaye’s Tabouli Recipe

Leon Kaye — Sun, 04 Apr 2010 15:40:42 +0000

Drat! I meant for this to go out on Sunday, but I forgot to press "publish" . . .

I'm in Fresno for a quick Easter getaway to catch up with relatives and my parents, who are driving down from the Bay Area.

I thought it would be fitting to share my grandmother's tabouli (tabbouleh) recipe. Easter was a favorite holiday for her and is more important to many Armenians: many prefer to celebrate the rebirth over the birth of Christ, important culturally to a people who take pride in the fact that they were the first country to adopt Christianity as its religion. There are so many variations of this Levantine salad dish, which has its origins in the Eastern Mediterranean region. Most of my grandmother's cooking were from the mind, which worked with her heart in creating wholesome, flavorful dishes. Sadly, we only have a few recipes. What I love about this one is that it's a product of her time; most of the ingredients are fresh, but she added a small can of tomato juice . . . which was always on hand as my grandparents owned a small grocery store on the corner of Jensen and Cedar in Calwa, just south of Fresno. Special thanks to my aunt for sharing it: I am just copying it here for you. It's a great side dish that's a meal in itself . . . tasty, of course, with fresh spring lamb that is was often the centerpiece of an Armenian Easter meal. Mama Kaye's Tabooula(there are a few ways to spell this!) 1 cup fine ground bulgur 1/4 cup olive oil 1 small can tomato juice 1/4 cup lemon juice (or to taste) 4-6 green onions chopped 1 small red onion chopped 1 small bunch chopped parsley 2 sticks celery chopped 1/2 red bell pepper chopped 3 juicy ripe tomatoes chopped 1/2 chili pepper chopped finely (or cayenne pepper to taste) Soak the bulgur in the liquids. Let it sit about 1-2 hours Add the rest of the ingredients. Vegetables can vary by your taste preference.

The Blossom Trail

Leon Kaye — Sun, 04 Apr 2010 15:30:32 +0000

This is a great time to visit the San Joaquin Valley: the weather is still a little cool, the strawberries are starting its season, the Sierra Nevadas are still draped in snow, and it's time to drive around the Blossom Trail.

The Blossom Trail circles around the roads and highways southeast of Fresno. Trees boasting blooming citrus, pomegranates, apricots, peaches, almonds, just to name a few, blanket the roads and lure you with their delicate fragrances. Of course the summer is fantastic here when the fruit is actually in season, but temperatures often reach 100 degrees; now is a better time to smell the misty dew and the must coming from the valley's sandy soil.

It's a great time to explore some towns that are each unique in their own way: Kingsburg with its Swedish Village; Selma has a retro downtown and packing plants; Sanger offers some great Mexican food (La Hacienda serves some mean caldos, or soups); Clovis boasts its old west downtown and antique shops; and Orange Cove, with its charming historic center.

You'll notice that the trees are trellised, which allow more sun to hit the fruit, allowing for more sugar content; drip irrigation pipes strewn all over the trunks, allowing farmers to conserve water; and wildflowers scattered all over.

This is a refreshing way to go off the beaten path on your way to Yosemite, Kings Canyon, or Sequoia National Parks. You can stock up at Simonian Farms (their raisins are to die for), but I love finding the random, ramshackle stands . . . you never know what you may find . . .

Grandma’s House

Leon Kaye — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 15:09:52 +0000

Years ago my brother wrote this poem for my father. Our grandmother passed away in 1990, but her hearty and giving spirit still stays with us. Her little house in Fresno has not really changed much since she moved out 24 years ago, but every time I visit Fresno, I have to drive by for a quick visit to the home where as children, we shared so many beautiful memories.

All these buzzwords we currently hear (sustainable, green, eco-, etc.) were not thrown around during her lifetime. But as I read this poem, I realize that we would all be in a better place if we lived as simply, frugally, and generously as she had during her 85 years.

And while we discuss and agonize over all of our problems, issues, and controversies, we often forget that the best solutions were offered by those who came before us.

Special thanks to Kevin Kaye for agreeing to share this poem while I am away this month.

Grandma’s House

A small stucco house stood unassuming

On a street corner whose name I have forgotten.

Unlike my house the streets had no sidewalks

But its rosebushes matched those my Dad planted;

A cement porch with two red and white chairs.

I thought I had revisited that place

Not too long ago with my cousin Alison,

But the street had become ambiguous

And we were two streets removed from Grandma’s.

I walked into a lamajoun kitchen one day

And I was in that small stucco house.

It was that that delicious smell of Grandma’s kitchen

That had temporarily deceived me,

Reminding me of another time…

Persimmon jam and cotta bread,

The type I’ll never have again.

Cracker bread in a tall basket

And candy half-hidden in a drawer.

The mailbox that amused my brother Leon and I,

Warm breakfast every morning when we awoke- -

From the sofa-bed in the den

And a goldish, well-worn love seat.

(I remember Grandma’s house perfectly!)

Chocolate chip cookies in coffee cans,

Made in the antiquated oven,

Full of nuts and perfect with milk.

And we always took some home with us.

I called it Armenian pizza,

We ate it with red onions, pickle and tomato

And we took some of that home as well.

But I would rather have stayed

Had I known time was running out.

That house still stands, unaware she has left.

Bought and sold. Painted, pruned and mowed.

And perhaps I can not always find it

But Grandma’s House will never be forgotten.

2/14/95

Kevin Elias Kaye

Note: lamajoun (or lahmacun, lahmajoon, or "Armenian pizza") is a flat bread with minced meat, originating from Arab regions. Cotta, or "gahtah" is a sweet bread often eaten for breakfast or dessert--my grandmother's, however, was more like a croissant, though truthfully, no croissant compared to those rolls my grandmother would spend hours baking--and sadly, that recipe has been lost.

Water Wars: The Floodgates Have Opened!

Leon Kaye — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 20:39:19 +0000

Wow. Two weeks ago I posted a short film I did with Patrick Benson on LA's tenuous relationship with water. And as I often do weekly, I posted the link to most of the LinkedIn groups to which I belong. From a bird's eye view, the results were interesting: I think few actually watched the film, but I sure got a lot of comments based on my title, which was "Is water really the next oil?"

The discussions are still flying on LinkedIn. Most were engaging, and I was so overwhelmed I wasn't able to reply to all of them. Some were snarky, such as the suggestion that water issues will far outlive social media (which was used, of course, to post that response). Perhaps one issue was that for Los Angeles resident to start a topic on water is like having a congressional staffer in Washington, DC dish out thoughts on partisanship. Anyway, let me share some highlights with some topics discussed with my thoughts.

Desalinisation. Many heated discussions started over this topic. Some saw it as a panacea: others saw it as expensive and destructive. In an ideal world, I would see it if renewable energy technologies could fuel this energy-intensive technology. I'm not a scientist, but using "X" amount of energy to create "Y" amount of potable water sounds like an ecological, and economic catastrophe, to me.

Conservation. It's amazing how challenging economic times can bring back terms like "conservation" that seem dated, but it's true. Californians are an easy target, but the fact is, we are leaders when it comes to energy and water conservation. It seems odd to me that areas with the least amounts of water often have NO water metering!

Moving water from Canada using a pipeline. I would posit that Canadians would give up poutine, hockey, and the Queen on their currency (not necessarily in that order) before they'd be willing to see this resource flow south of the border. Perhaps the scenario of polar ice caps melting could make this the new gold. This hypothetical may be fodder for a South Park movie sequel, with Obama and Harper caricatures jousting each other into war, and not over Terrance and Phillip.

Installing grey water or waste water treatment systems on residential properties. One huge issue that irks me is using perfectly fine drinking water to irrigate our landscaping, or worse wash our car. And most communities have restrictions banning the installation of such systems. One word: ridiculous. That has got to change.

Stay tuned. Many professionals who responded stated that they think the 21st century could be an ugly one, fueled by conflicts over water rights from Mexico to Pakistan. We'll revisit this in the year 2110.

California's Central Valley. The Economist had a recent article calling this reason the next Appalachia. Since my roots are in the San Joaquin Valley, I really do hope not. When I'm back, I'll have more to say about that.

My previous posting did not have the movie file URL embedded in the email, so if you missed it, please take a look. And please appreciate Patrick Benson's great work. He is very talented and a great person to work with!

So how do we solve this problem? I welcome your thoughts.

Forget it, Jake. It’s Chinatown.

Leon Kaye — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 02:45:25 +0000

That line ended the 1974 film, Chinatown, one of the great psychodramas of all time. Inspired by the catastrophic disputes over land and water that embroiled Southern California politics in controversy during the early 1920s, Chinatown should be on your must-see list if you have yet to watch it.

It's funny how that term, Chinatown, is part of our American conscience. Part of it is that when about 1 in 5 of the earth's population has roots in that region, you are bound to run into a Chinatown, or at least a cluster of Chinese restaurants and businesses. You shouldn't miss San Francisco's Chinatown when visiting, though the real joy of this neighborhood is exploring its back alleys like Ross and Waverly. New York's Chinatown is vibrant and full of cheap eats in a city that's notorious for assaulting your wallet. Los Angeles still has a Chinatown, but drive a few miles east to towns like Alhambra or Rosemead if you want truly authentic food and a good foot massage. When traveling through Europe, walking into a little Chinese restaurant in Paris or Prague gives you a break from the backpacking bread-and-cheese routine; plus they are often the only restaurants that are open late or on Sundays in that region. Even Shanghai has a Chinatown, which I know seems ridiculous considering that city's location, but when I first visited years ago, locals told me not to miss it. Apparently way back when the European powers dominated Shanghai, that was the area at which local Shanghainese were relegated for conducting everyday business.

When it comes to sustainability and eating healthy, some may take issue with this, but the best place to buy fresh produce and good teas are in Chinese neighborhoods or markets--fresher, cheaper, and just better quality overall.

But there is one Chinatown I wish I could have visited at its heyday. It has fallen into steep decline, but slowly it is making a comeback.

And it's in Fresno.

Fresno's historic Chinatown is about as old as the city itself. Evidence suggests it first developed in the 1880s, literally on the wrong side of the tracks. It was probably the first genuine American "diverse" and "multicultural" neighborhood before those terms were even used: Italian delis, Japanese publishers and retailers, a Mexican theater, an Armenian hotel, and a Basque restaurant were only a few of the various businesses that made up these six city blocks. The neighborhood was densely populated and vibrant: surviving insurance maps from the nineteenth century suggest a crowded and bustling district surrounded by farms and ranchland.

Like other southern Fresno neighborhoods, Chinatown fell into decline and disrepair in the 1960s and 1970s as the city's developers cemented their stranglehold on local politics. The city's population moved more and more north towards the San Joaquin River bluffs. Many of the buildings in Chinatown were lost, serving only as treasured memories to those who had fond memories of growing up in the area.

But now the neighborhood is making a comeback. In 1994, local activists, residents, and business owners founded Chinatown Revitalization Inc. of Fresno, and succeeded in having several of the buildings listed on historic registers. The Central Fish Company, an Asian grocery store and seafood retailer, is now the anchor of this neighborhood, and restaurants have opened, hoping to lure business from baseball fans who attend games at the new downtown minor league ballpark.

What's fascinating about this neighborhood was that while the neighborhood was humming with business during the day, there was a vicariously salicious and seedy side to Chinatown at night. Many of the stories were just dismissed as folklore or urban legends, but in 2007, the neighborhood gained national media attention for the discovery of the secret tunnels that linked the buildings. Believed to have been built to serve as cold storage during the intense summer heat, the tunnels often served as speakeasies during Prohibition, among other nightly activities that I'll leave to your imagination.

Chinatown is definitely worth a quick visit if you're passing through Fresno or happen to be in town for a few days. The retro signs alone are fun to check out. Refurbishing this neighborhood will be an uphill battle: most of Fresno's entertainment is farther north, where the population is. Renewed efforts to revitalize downtown Fresno and nearby neighborhoods end up stalling. The ballpark has not brought in the number of customers for which local businesses had hoped. And many locals just do not want to venture to southern Fresno, notorious for crime and social ills that people feel can be dealt with by just moving farther and farther away.

But there is hope in this group of activists and business owners that want to do some good. Perhaps the tunnels can be restored, offering some more visitors and revenues to this neighborhood that just beckons you to explore. It would be a shame if what is left of Fresno's Chinatown is lost.

The Real California

Leon Kaye — Tue, 19 Jan 2010 15:56:23 +0000

I spent MLK weekend in Fresno visiting an old college friend. The drive to Fresno is about four hours, and takes you to a completely different world than to which we are accustomed in Southern California or the Bay Area. We tend to be dismissive of this part of the state, but there is much that the San Joaquin Valley offers the visitor. For better or for worse, that bag of goodies you have snagged at Whole Foods or Trader Joe's most likely had its origins in this region, the true bread basket (or gift basket?) of America. Fresno County is the largest agricultural county in the nation; its neighbor, Tulare County, is number two.

In the coming weeks there I will share some stories about small towns and neighborhoods that are trying to reclaim their heritage; the costs resulting from rampant and unchecked development; and how you can enjoy the endless bounty that makes the San Joaquin Valley an enriching place to visit. I'll start with Fresno, once a small 19th century train stop that has become the fifth largest city in California.

One area that has made a strong comeback for 20 years is Fresno's Tower District. Built around the 70 year old Tower Theater on Olive and Wishon, driving through this neighborhood is like going back to the 1950s. Old retro storefronts and small shops and restaurants beckon you to recall a time when this neighborhood was considered the outskirts of Fresno. As Fresno's developers pushed the town's city limits farther and farther north, "the Tower" fell into decline during the 1960s and 1970s, but once the Tower Theater reopened in 1978, residents and businesses returned. Full of American Craftsman and California Bungalows, the Tower reminds you of a time when the Central Valley was full of charming towns that exuded Americana, not McMansions. When walking around the area Friday night, I was shocked to see a vegan restaurant on Van Ness Avenue, so the Tower now truly offers something for everyone. But don't dismiss the vintage clothing, used bookstores, high-end dining spots, and music stores!

There are other Fresno neighborhoods worth exploring: Old Fig Garden is full of old mansions that host a vibrant "Christmas Tree Lane" during the holidays; Sunnyside is full of old ranch houses and is a gateway to the 60 mile long Blossom Trail; Huntington Boulevard is full of stately homes; Fulton Mall, the main shopping and business street until the 1950s, is now a sad pedestrian mall that is a reminder of what can result from poor urban planning. Then there's downtown Fresno, a wonderful collection of old 20th century architecture that has steeply fallen into decline; many of the old charming buildings are now abandoned and are now threated with demolition. Stay tuned: I'll share with you the stories of the once decadent Chinatown; an attempt to build a Little Armenia; one of many villages so small you can't find it on a map; where to hunt antiques; and the ravages of McMansion mania.

Fresno is often thought as a place to pass through on your way to Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and Sequoia National Parks, but it is worth spending a little time there to discover its hidden treasures.

Grand Central

Leon Kaye — Sun, 12 Jul 2009 12:31:17 +0000

Los Angeles is often the straw man when you read about California’s environmental problems. The left screams bloody murder at the thought of offshore drilling. Conservative farmers ask why “their” water is going to swimming pools in Southern California. LA = smog, which is the view of many people, including one former college pal who stopped contacting me when I challenged her view that there’s so much more to LA than smog. Oh, and the San Pedro Bay is a Superfund site. I can go on and on and on about the Southland. But there’s another environmental disaster underway in the Golden State.

California’s Central Valley is the country’s breadbasket, but may be going to hell in a hand basket. Towns such as Arvin and Taft are amongst the most polluted areas in the USA with respiratory illnesses and birth defect rates disturbingly rising. Charming retro towns like Fresno and Modesto have replaced farmland with McMansions and big box stores. Even when I lived and studied in Fresno, rare was the day when I could see the stunning Sierra Nevada Mountains. And back then, talk of toxins such as selenium building up in the soil was a constant topic in the local newspapers.

I was reminded about all of this when I drove up the San Joaquin Valley on I-5 to visit my parents. I’ve always loathed the drive, but flying is not the most eco-conscious means of travel, and I had the dog with me. As I navigated the 200 or so miles towards CA-152, there were huge swaths of barren land screaming “Congress Created Dust Bowl.” Bitterness rages in Fresno County, where farmers have had to let orchards and farms whither because there’s less water to go around. I also passed the cattle range region, known in vegetarian circles as “Cowschwitz.” Meanwhile, the heat beat down on my car at a ferocious 110 degrees. We can’t forget that this region was once known as the great California desert before the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers’ delta region became the source of irrigation that waters crops from cotton to tomatoes to melons.

I was relieved to go finally get off the 5 for 152 West . . . I’ve always loved driving by the San Luis Reservoir, but sighed when I saw how alarmingly low its water levels had receded.

There’s no easy answer. We cannot let this region collapse, nor should smug Bay Area or Southland residents smirk the Central Valley. Despite the recent housing market meltdown, families still move here for the lower cost of living. Fresno County is agricultural powerhouse that employs countless people. Merced shows promise as the home of the newest University of California campus.

I don’t know what the answers are, but my family roots are here and I want this area to thrive. We’ve got to encourage farmers to use more effective means of irrigation, which in the long haul would only let them thrive—and therefore not encourage them to trade their land for awfully built homes. Fresno needs to get out of the stranglehold of residential land developers. Local universities should make more of an effort to incubate more businesses so this heartland can become more economically diversified. And perhaps residents should pay more for water: I could never understand why lawns in Fresno could be so green while those in San Jose and Los Angeles have, well, more tan in them.

The answers aren’t easy, but I know the Central Valley has so much potential. The rows of trees in its orchards are fragrant in spring, the old neighborhoods such as the Tower District are charming, and the foothills of the Sierras are peaceful. But I cringe when I think of its future.