greengopost.com » recycling

Swedes Can Now Sell Used Furniture on IKEA’s Web Site

Leon Kaye — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 03:59:24 +0000

What, IKEA is selling used furniture? I was taken aback for a few reasons: I did not know anyone bought used IKEA furniture; it was surprising that IKEA furniture lasted long enough to transfer to a new owner; and the whole point of purchasing furniture from the big blue and yellow store was to have that sleek modern furniture for a low price, with the added bonus of a lunch at the famous IKEA Café, while hoping that no one you know would see you there.

IKEA has received a fair share of criticism over the years, but there is evidence that the furniture giant undertaking improvements on the sustainability front. The company has tinkered with renewable energy, is phasing out flame retardants in its furniture, and in Sweden it is making a counterintuitive business move: customers in its home country can now sell the store’s used furniture on IKEA’s Swedish site.

Peter Agnefäll, CEO of IKEA Sweden, stated that the launch of the used furniture marketplace was a step in proving that IKEA is dedicated to environmental stewardship. Members of the company’s customer loyalty program, IKEA Family, can post and sell their items for free. Membership, after all, is free, and to that end, Agnefäll says the company does not expect to make any money from this service. He also expects the program to take some time, but in the long run, IKEA does not expect its sales to suffer. At the same time, he dismissed any assertions that IKEA was trying to establish a foothold in the second-hand goods industry--a valid concern to some after last year, when the company had a naming rights issue with a used furniture clearinghouse, ILoveIkea.se. After IKEA took legal action, the site changed its name to Billyandfriends.se.

The site launched last weekend while IKEA’s Sweden locations hosted flea markets at the stores’ parking lots. For now IKEA is only offering the online swap meet in Sweden, but if the service catches on, other countries could see a similar online service in the future. The move is a bold one for IKEA, and for consumers, a smart one. With all the talk about eco-friendly furniture and other products with a “sustainability” stamp, there is one fact that is true of many products. Whether the item is a pair of jeans, sofa, car, or house, the most eco-friendly option is often the one that has already been manufactured or built.

Paper, Plastic, Neither, or Recycling: Environmental Benefits Vs. Waste

Leon Kaye — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 00:26:17 +0000

The best conference panels are the ones that bring in professionals from different industries and sectors generally do not see eye to eye on various issues. In the age of Flip Cameras and YouTube, that may provide for uncomfortable moments that live forever in video, but let’s just get to the point. If I want a love fest, I can have my friends and relatives over for an evening. I don’t want to take a few days off of work, or even fly across the country, to sit in a conference room full of folks who nod their heads and say, “yes, we agree, and life is wonderful.” It is the easy and comfortable route, but it also leads to collective yawns, and inspires many conference attendees to hang out at the corporate-sponsored coffee bar—or just skip the venue and play hooky.

So the Women in Green Forum got it right, especially during today's panel on consumer products and packaging. The emphasis, I say, was on packaging. The panel offered a balance of industry associations, manufacturers, and advocates. Valid points were brought up on all sides, and due to time constraints, the discussion was not as vibrant as we would have liked, but thought provoking nonetheless.

One panelist was especially brave. Ashley Carlson, the Director of Packaging of the American Chemistry Council’s Plastic Division bravely faced the crowd. She admitted she was nervous, unnecessary because she shined. While the WIGF was full of many professionals from all backgrounds, the reality for the ACC was that sending an employee to this event was about as kind as throwing a shih-tzu into a piranha pond--but Carlson stood her ground. Carlson did bring up some valid points: using plastics for packaging reducing shipping weight, which saves energy used in transportation. Plastic has a role in keeping food fresher longer, reducing spoilage and therefore waste. Most energy consumed by consumer packaged goods manufacturing is in the total product life cycle—only about 10% of the total energy is devoted to the actual packaging. And just because your bag is bioplastic does not mean it is biodegradable: that bioplastic cup or bag will not decompose if it ends up in a landfill. Well, at least not in our lifetime and a few lifetimes after that. So Carlson’s, and the ACC’s mantra, was that more recycling of plastic is the way to go—a fair argument.

Elisabeth Comere from Tetra Pak spoke next. She represents a company that contains food products in about 170 nations, and in 2009 manufactured 145 billion packs. Visit a supermarket in Europe, and you will see a showroom of Tetra Pak’s products—and they have a growing foothold in the North American market as well. So how are Tetra Pak’s cartons eco-friendly? Through a partnership with the Forest Stewardship Council, the Swedish-founded and Swiss-based firm are using products sourced from natural resources that are easily replenished, thanks to forestry programs that ensure careful maintenance of the lands on which the trees are raised.

Finally Heidi Sanborn, the California Product Stewardship Council, concluded the session. She brought up a point many of us have not thought about because well, most of us have not been around that long. In 1900, most of New York City’s landfill was from ash that was produced from cooking. By 1960, 70% of landfill waste was from food. And 40 years later, 75% of all waste was from manufactured products. Plastic and paper have roles in that massive shift.

Clearly we are not going back to the days when food vendors trolled the streets selling fresh food products, which women spent most of their days preparing and cooking. But Sanborn made the point that companies need to take a more active role in managing their products’ waste—government will not do it, and clearly consumers are not.

Personally, when a company or trade show association sponsors a study, it comes across to me as giving numbers that such organizations want their stakeholders to see. So if anyone out there can show some good independent, third party data stating the case for or against plastic and paper consumption, bring it—the panel concluded this morning, but the discussion will not stop anytime soon.

Honolulu to Building Contractors: Recycle 60% of Used Materials

Leon Kaye — Sun, 29 Aug 2010 21:50:14 +0000

Hawai'i's capital has 80% of the state's population and is the gateway for most of the 7 to 8 million tourists that visit annually. Honolulu also grapples with a huge trash problem. Its 900,000 residents and 80,000 daily visitors combined contribute over 1.5 million tons of trash each year. About one-third of that garbage is incinerated to provide electricity. But whatever is not recycled ends up at a landfill southwest of the city, and space is disappearing fast.

City leaders thought they had a solution for all that garbage: shred it, bale it, and send it to a landfill in Washington state. Native Americans who administer the land where the dump is located, however, said no thank you, and filed a court order to prevent the import of trash. Another landfill exists on the Big Island of Hawai'i, but a local ordinance there nixes the delivery of trash from outside the island. Meanwhile, space is running out, and no one wants a landfill near the backyard. Why would they? Oahu is crammed with natural beauty. But that trash has go to go somewhere. Increased recycling may offer part of a solution.

Honolulu City Councilman Donovan Dela Cruz introduced a bill that would require building permit applicants to submit plans that would prove reuse or recycling of 60% of any demolished and dismantled materials. Such a plan appears to be a solid place to start: According to Re-use Hawai'i, a non-profit that sources and resells used construction materials, about 35% of landfill waste in Hawai'i comes from construction projects. The bill exceeds general LEED requirements, which suggest that 50% of building materials be diverted from landfills.

As it stands, the bill needs some fine-tuning. Local contractors support the spirit of the bill, but want incentives including tax breaks and a fast-track permit process included in any new law. The bill also does not spell out what the penalty would be for any violation of the law.

The problem will likely get worse before any solution is agreed upon. Hawai'i has had its share of economic problems the past decade, but it is still growing: various indices rank the Honolulu area as having one of the highest qualities of life on the globe—and meanwhile, tourists are coming back.

One place where contractors could start is in Re-Use Hawai'i's warehouse. The organization receives used building materials, and then resells them at costs that are tiny when compared to those at a building supply store. Proceeds from the warehouse's sales go towards Re-use Hawai'i's expansion and education projects, while reducing trips to Oahu's landfill.

Finding a New Use for Those World Cup Vuvuzelas

Leon Kaye — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 09:00:07 +0000

Even if you dislike football (soccer to 300 million Americans), admit that the emotions and pageantry make the World Cup a riveting event every 4 years.

And then there are those vuvuzelas.

You know what I’m talking about: those horns that depending on one’s perspective, are either adding atmosphere to the matches or are an annoying detriment. Turn the TV on to watch a match, and that humming and buzzing refuses to end. Change the channel quickly, and that noise will startle the dog, as what occurred this morning, when I flipped the channel to the Ghana-Germany match.

So the million dollar question involves what will happen to those darned plastic vuvuzelas which—surprise!—generally come from China. It’s the most vexing World Cup riddle to me since pondering the fate of the Dutch girls who rounded up 30 of their peers to wear skimpy orange dresses bleating the Bavaria beer brand, incurring the wrath of FIFA and local law officials (meanwhile, Joran Van der Sloot was on the lam for years, but that’s beyond the scope of this site!)

Just go to Aliababa.com, type in vuvuzela, see how many suppliers appear in the search, and imagine the faces on those poor underpaid Chinese workers who are thinking . . . “what the heck am I making now for $1 a day?” But imagine all those vuvuzelas ending up in landfills or on the side of the road. What are we supposed to do with them once they are gone?

Well, Treehugger suggests buying ones made from recycled glass, which is a brilliant idea if you want a nice souvenir to take home and if you live in the USA, risk gaining the attention of TSA workers who will probably confiscate it, thinking it’s a weapon. Plus, they may look pretty, but I am reminded of Dame Edna’s comment on Mayan clothing: “If it looks good in Guatemala, it stays in Guatemala.” Furthermore, the odds of a football fan taking a huge glass instrument into a stadium are very low—remember, we are talking about a sport where fans have died in stampedes and the rowdiest are kept behind barbed wire and massive layers of security.

I offer the following suggestions for repurposing those vuvuzelas:

Shred them and recycle them into sporting apparel. Who would not drool at the sight of a tag on a warm-up jacket saying, “Made from 100% recycled vuvuzelas.” I think I have a new product idea for my favorite athletic clothing manufacturer, UK’s Yew Clothing.
Reuse them as garden planters. I have seen article suggesting that old Crocs be used as flower pots, which does nothing except turn ugly fashion into ugly gardens. The sight of having a long skinny Chia Pet in your garden, that you get to lovingly trim when you need chives or thyme in your recipe, could make the gardening movement in the US and other countries gain even more steam.
Saw them apart and build Dutch bicycles. No longer would Amsterdam tourists or locals get confused over where they locked their bike—no would anyone steal such a bike because the horn would be shortened and attached to the bike, meaning that the thief’s neighbors would have to hear that horn, meaning no would else would want it . Just saw off the ends, and you’ve got the pieces for a nifty bike frame. Imagine the sight of those pretty Dutch girls in orange Bavaria skirts—I see a co-marketing scheme in the future.
Ship them to Amsterdam where they can be incinerated in the city’s waste-to-fuel power plant, ensuring that they never make those loud bellowing noises again.
Beer drinking apparatuses (Yes, the word that begins with “b”). But that implies I advocate underage drinking.

If you have a better idea, we’d love to hear about them.

Reconciling Consumerism and Sustainability

Leon Kaye — Mon, 31 May 2010 07:42:53 +0000

To those Americans who dismiss Europe as a backward, leftist, and socialist land, I say, back off—the business leaders I met and to whom I listened at the GRI Conference would run circles around my business school professors and most managers across the pond! To those Europeans who slam America as a consumer-frenzied, overindulged society, I say, not so fast: based on the crowds I saw in the shopping areas and the lines I saw in the stores, I think both sides of the Atlantic know how to spend a buck (or Euro).

I was thinking about this as I walked into a C&A store in downtown Amsterdam: the German equivalent of H&M that for some reason (surprisingly) has established itself in Latin America but not in the US yet. Thanks to my poor planning and the rain yesterday, I got soaked not once, but twice! So what does a visitor who under-packed for his trip do? Go to C&A, where I could get some clothes for me—and my honey—so I wouldn’t catch pneumonia as I am leaving today for a quick overnight trip to Maastricht.

In a way, The Netherlands is a disposable society. Well, the Dutch have to be. Glass and paper are recycled with a decent amount of bins scattered throughout the country. Pilot composting programs have started. But where does the rest of the trash go?

It is incinerated and turned into electricity. It’s not the most efficient system: only 30% of the electricity generated from trash in the Netherlands becomes electricity. But in a country that is mostly below sea level and has limited space, strict landfill laws are in place to divert waste. It’s actually cheaper for the country to burn plastic goods than to recycle them—so you have an example of a society making the best possible choice they can make. End result: only 0.5 to 1% of trash gets tucked away in a dump.

But like the rest of the world, the Dutch have to face the fact that they are still consuming. C&A, like other clothing chains, are now offering “bio” (organic cotton or recycled plastic) clothing. But here’s the deal. Just because something is organic, doesn’t mean it’s not using water, fertilizer (organic or not), fuel, and hard labor to make those clothes. And the impact of those clothes last for as long as the item is worn and washed—leaving a greater footprint on the earth than the process under which it was manufactured. You still have to dry clean, wash, and/or dry it.

So what’s better: recycling, turning an unwanted item into energy, or not buying that product in the first place? There are no easy answers: but this is something to ponder. No perfect solution really exists.

Travel Gadgets: You already have them!

Leon Kaye — Mon, 24 May 2010 10:46:04 +0000

Having recently returned from a trip abroad (and now about to go on another one), I thought I'd share some tips for how you can be more eco-friendly while you are on the road. To me, being "green" is not just about buying that recycled or fair-trade product: sustainability in part relies on just consuming less and not buying so much "stuff." Having been to 50 countries and racked up more miles from business trips than I care to admit, here are some ideas of what I pack when I go on a trip. Mind you, what comes with me varies: it's a challenge these days complying with TSA regulations in the USA while avoiding checked-baggage fees and carrying your luggage into the cabin. But instead of over-paying for gadgets at a travel store (most are overpriced and borderline useless), let me give you some ideas--you probably already have them in your home or office!

Binder clips: I love these and try to bring various sizes with me. Whether it's clasping your receipts for your expense reports, using it as a "chip clip," or plugging a tear in your backpack till you find a replacement, these are indispensable. By the way, the tiny ones--if you wear cuffed shirts but forget your cuff links, they work in a pinch. Instead of buying a leather passport pouch, just cinch your travel documents together with one. Oh, and if you are on a long trip and do some handwashing, you've got a clothespin, too!
Baby shampoo: My dad taught me this trick--you have your body wash, and for some reason, it works great for hand laundry, and less harsh than using detergent. Think of it as one less thing to pack. Though of course, if it works on laundry, then maybe baby shampoo should not be used on . . . a baby.
Baking soda: Okay, it's probably not a good idea to bring a Ziploc bag of white powder onto a plane in this age of airport security, but if you are away on a long trip, pick up a box at a corner store. Why? After a long day of meetings or travel, a soothing bath is in store back in your hotel. If you are allergic to most soaps, it's great for your skin. On the chance your stomach gets upset, it's an effective antacid. Mix it with water and you have a mouthwash--if you're camping and catch something that gives you a rash, make a paste and it's a nice balm. Oh, and if you travel with your pet, brushing your furry friend with a little baking soda will freshen him or her up!
Aloe vera gel: Annoyed by that 100ml/3 fluid oz. limit for carry-on luggage? Aloe gel is a great substitute for several toiletries: it's your shave gel, a moisturizer, ointment if you cut or burn yourself, and instead of those chemical sanitizers, rubbing your hands with a little aloe should do the trick! Remember, any doctor will tell you that a little soap, water and friction will get rid of germs; aloe can do the trick as well. If your shoes need a little polishing, aloe can work as an alternative here, too.
Walnuts: The best snack to bring on the plane. Why? High in protein, fiber, and natural healthy fats that will satiate your hunger on those long plane rides. Also, walnuts are a snack that apparently contain melatonin, a compound that helps you adjust to time zone changes and aids in inducing sleep, so bring plenty to nosh on for your trip. They are also healthier than those over-salted pretzels and peanuts airlines offer in the cabin--if they even bother these days. Walnuts are healther than those overprocessed energy bars, too!
Thumb drive (flash drive): It's best if you have one password protected, but I like keeping copies of my passport, credit cards, and other important documents on these in case something goes awry. Plus it's more convenient than having to make all those paper copies--and creates less waste in the process. Chances are you are bringing one with you anyway!

I could go on, but this is just a start. The point is to use up products you may already have, and to avoid buying something that you may use only once and then just throw away. And yes, most of us love those little sample sized shampoos and bath gels that hotels provide, but after reading about the Pacific Garbage Patch (and now one's been found in the Atlantic), we really should find ways to reuse--and then we won't even have to recycle.

Speaking of which, I suggest checking out AltUse.com. The premise of the site is that your home or office is probably already packed with products that are just sitting there, so re-purpose them! I will not use my Grey Goose Vodka anytime soon to clean my glasses, but there countless great suggestions for what you may otherwise just pitch--or is just collection dust in the pantry.

Reprinted from http://www.greenteamagazine.com/?p=842, March 5, 2010.

A Concrete Solution

Leon Kaye — Mon, 10 May 2010 06:58:03 +0000

You have approached this sad sight everywhere: a tree becomes so huge to the point at which nervous local bureaucrats, afraid of getting sued by some litigious fool who could trip on the sidewalk, take action by: punishing and hacking down the tree. It happens everywhere, but it is distressing when seen in areas like southern California, that need as many shade trees as possible. One entreprenuer, however, has been swimming against the tide with a solid solution.

Lindsay Smith, a former screenwriter, founded Rubbersidewalks Inc. in 2001. Upset with seeing several ficus trees marked for destruction in Gardena, CA due to their obtrusive roots, Smith took action, calling a local newspaper. A story hit the presses and the cutting stopped, but she focused her energies towards founding her company, which turns recycled tires into sidewalk panels that are more flexible than concrete.

Smith faces challenges analogous to many entreprenuers in the green technology space: at $10 a square foot, her sidewalks are more expensive than those made of standard concrete, which is priced around $7 a square foot. She received a grant from the Integrated Waste Management Board, which reaps funds from those $1.75-per-tire recycling fee you pay at the auto shop. But there is a risk that such grants cannot last forever, and during tight budgetary times, cities will have a hard time justifying paying a premium for Smith's sidewalks, so she will have to find a way to make her product more competitive.

But at the same time, Smith has argued that her product line can save money in the long run. And that is the biggest challenge in dealing with government: the government often wastes money because it is always trying to save money, with often penny-wise-pound-foolish results. Concrete sidewalks are expensive to repair, and waste from such projects hogs space in landfills. With Rubbersidewalks' panels, patches of sidewalks can be lifted temporarily, allowing for periodic tree root trimming.

Other benefits exist as well: the panels absorb rainwater, preventing runoff into storm sewers; the material is easier on pedestrians' knees and feet; and of course, the sidewalks save trees, allowing for only root trimming, not the yanking of an entire tree--which by the way, is quite pricey. Smith has already responded to market forces by lowering her prices to stay competitive; if she can weather this current economic storm, and if city officials can start understanding the concept of ROI, she and other innovators in this space have a shot at enjoying increased success.

The ecoATM

Leon Kaye — Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:45:38 +0000

Electronic waste has been gathering more attention lately, and it should: as we use more cheap electronics, the resulting waste ends up becoming a toxic nightmare. But these devices are not easy to recycle. Most e-waste drop off spots are inconveniently located, and most consumers do not want to the hassle of mailing off their old MP3 players or cell phones. Then there is the question of where these materials end up: most likely, in some third world country where they are disassembled, or shredded, in horrific conditions.

Based in San Diego, ecoATM thinks it may have a solution. Currently eleven of its kiosks are scattered across the United States. They hope to have about 150 machines operating by the end of 2010, and 700 next year.

They work relatively simply:

You insert your old portable CE device or handset.
The used device is given a value.
And the portables are automatically binned inside. The user receives trade-up coupon, gift card, cash, and/or a charitable contribution.

So far the pilot program has found success. Unlike those Coinstar kiosks you see in supermarkets, ecoATM does not ask you to pay for dumping your old products.

Most importantly, the entire process is audited and vetted in supporting the best possible environmental standards. The company ensures that their goods are not dumped in third world countries, and that their vendors are following the strictest recycling standards.

The company has been successful in raising venture capital, and ranked highly in Green:Net 2010’s Launchpad yesterday in San Francisco.

Garbage Dreams Tonight on PBS

Leon Kaye — Tue, 27 Apr 2010 15:23:54 +0000

This is tonight on PBS: thanks to a GGP reader who kindly passed it on! I saw Garbage Dreams, a documentary at Turning the Tide, a great conference put on by the Institute at Golden Gate, the think tank for the National Parks Conservancy. It is about the Zabaleen people of Cairo, they collect and recycle the garbage of the city. It was directed by a young woman, Mia Iskander, in fact she did all the work, visiting her 3 subjects for several years, developing a bond with them. It is quite a story. It will air on Independent Lens on PBS - April 27, 10pm. If you can catch this film, it is very well done and an eye-opener!

Earth Day Hangover: All That E-Waste

Leon Kaye — Mon, 26 Apr 2010 07:06:17 +0000

Earth Day was four days ago, so you can tell how important it was for me to talk about it. I appreciate the sentiment behind Earth Day, but I find most events either at the very least, tacky, or at the most, obscene. I think of all the fliers, plastic junk, and ridiculous products that are pitched, and I wince. Like Mother’s Day and Father’s Day, every day should somehow be Earth Day. But if there are more kids who get inspired by an Earth Day event, then perhaps there is some long term good.

Last week I wrote on Triple Pundit about the scams involved in e-waste drives. Far too many people pitch their computers, cell phones, and other electronic equipment at drop off points, thinking they are doing a great deed. Unfortunately, many of the people behind these drives are charlatans, who end up shipping your retired goods to countries like India and China, where the equipment is disassembled or even worse, pulverized in horrendous conditions.

In my view, much of the blame lies with the manufacturers. When I was a child, if the family TV or stereo conked out, a repairman was called to patch up the device. Now we are accustomed to just buying something new, because the cost of fixing the device often exceeds the cost to replace it. The result? Junk everywhere: in our landfills, on our sidewalks (in LA), and most disturbingly, in our oceans.

If your computer becomes obsolete, try to pass it off to someone who can use it—perhaps a younger family member or friend who just needs something for typing a document or surfing the web. But if that computer just has zero life remaining, then take it to a reputable recycling service. e-Stewards has the most responsible standards for repurposing that old gadget of yours. Companies like Redemtech, based in Columbus, Ohio, apply rigorous processes in breaking down old electronics.

It’s time to stop treating Asia, Africa, and India as our global garbage cans. Take a moment to sort out what you can do with those old appliances and gizmos of yours.

A Plastic Atlantic Sunrise

Leon Kaye — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:35:04 +0000

It's been a month since our trip to Salvador da Bahia, Brazil, a trip that still has me exuding enthusiasm for that region of the country. Our second week was especially unique, as we spent it in Mangue Seco, a tiny remote peninsula a two hours' drive and a boat ride away from Salvador. Because there are no direct roads to Mangue Seco, it is very remote, but I wouldn't say it is pristine: far too much garbage marred our stay there.

The Pacific Garbage Patch has been a topic of hand-wringing for a while, but last month, researchers at the Sea Education Association has found disturbing evidence of similar patches in both the northern and southern sections of the Atlantic Ocean. The reasons behind the patch are similar: the areas where these patches exist have few ocean currents, but are surrounded by fierce currents that allow few pieces of garbage to escape. Disturbingly, more fish and birds found around these patches have ingested bits of plastic. And when we toured down the Atlantic Coast to another small village named Costa Azul, we saw evidence suggesting that trash had come from afar: a propane tank here, pieces of plastic furniture there, and far too many bottles strewn among the sand dunes.

But locals and tourists were responsible for much of the trash that littered Mangue Seco. Far too often, we would see groups of friends or family's picnic at the beach, and leave their trash behind. Workers often ignored piles of trash at their restaurants' tables. And as an expat who lived there explained to us, the village really has no trash collection infrastructure (or activity--Salvador was full of itinerant recyclers!).

Part of the solution is education. But visitors also can contribute by reducing their usage of plastic and doing what they can to reuse, and recycle, too. Mangue Seco is just one example of a remote place that becomes "discovered" and then cannot cope with the onslaught of tourism. It was quite different from Morro de Sao Paulo, a small island a two-hour boat ride southwest of Salvador. As soon as we arrived in Morro de Sao Paulo, we paid a US$5 arrival tax (and a bizarre US$0.31 departure tax), part of which was used for trash collection. Every morning, before most visitors were awake, tractors full of trash cleaned Mangue Seco's paths (there were no roads), and the village stayed remarkably clean. The problem in Mangue Seco, however, is that no place wants outsiders telling them what to do . . . but in the meantime, a precious corner is being threatened by its sole economic lifeline.

How do you address the problem of drinking water when you travel abroad, especially if the water is not potable? I'm curious what you do, as bottled water clearly is one of the biggest culprits here and in other developing regions.

Preserving and Celebrating Salvador

Leon Kaye — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 21:37:55 +0000

As much as I love visiting large cities and national capitals, having limited time abroad often denies you the opportunity to view the true soul of a country. To me, Chicago presents visitors a near-perfect American city in architecture, culture, and spirit; Lyon reveals France's charm and cuisine; and Daejon allows you to glimpse everyday Korean life and a gateway to the country's spectacular nature. Salvador lacks Rio's glamour or São Paulo's constant business drumbeat, but this city of 2 million, capital of the state of Bahia, is arguably the heart of Brazil. Your initial impression of Salvador may be jarring, but that will quickly bloom into optimism and affection.

When entering the city by taxi from the airport, you will stare out the window at problems indicative of rapidly growing cities in developing (and developed!) countries: a lack of public transportation and updated roads offering choking traffic; inadequate sanitation and education; and troubling poverty, evident in the countless people who walk along the highways, on foot because they cannot afford transportation of any means.

But just as you should not judge New Jersey by its turnpikes, do not blanch at Salvador because of your view from your taxi. Arriving at your hotel, which hopefully is in Santo Antônio, you will appreciate the long history and timeless architecture that stretches across steep hills and narrow, winding streets.

Salvador is a fantastic example of preservation without perversion--rather than knocking down its colonial, art deco, and baroque mansions, Salvador celebrates its long history. During the 1990s, the city undertook massive urban renewal: buildings were repainted, repaired and re purposed into hotels, business, and restaurants. Purists may cry foul over what they see as erasing Salvador's bohemian feel: my response is that I am tired of travelers who think its fine for their home country to modernize and retrofit, but think far off exotic lands should look like National Geographic. I assure you that Salvador is plenty bohemian enough. I have not visited Africa yet--happily, Salvador, the center of Brazilian's African culture is the closest I have been!

Put on sturdy shoes and take a 5-10 minute stroll from your Santo Antônio hotel to the Pelourinho or (Pelô), Salvador's historic plaza and center. Soaring baroque churches and vibrantly painted building facades may cause danger, only because if you are staring up too much you risk lodging your flip-flop or Jimmy Choo between a couple cobblestones (hint: wear sturdy shoes--I already told you!). The Pelô is not just some contrived tourist trap: you will notice a bevy of signs for cultural centers, music and dance schools, as well as studios for capoeira, a catchy Brazilian drum routine that combines fight, dance, and playful gamemanship. Traipse around the Terreiro de Jesus, hopefully timed around a religious celebration, wander into its surrounding four churches, pose for a photo with the playful Baianas (the women who wear the romanticized traditional Bahian garb, or as my better half said, the "giant pincushions"), and be sure to drink plenty of water--the sultry humidity will zap you sooner than you think!

Speaking of water, Salvador has its environmental problems. Despite the efforts of locals to recycle (by some accounts the poverty rate hovers at 50%, so seeing folks collect beverage containers is a common sight), garbage and recycling pose its challenges. Brazil has an impressive renewable energy and ethanol program, but you can feel the emissions tingle on your skin while walking along a busy street. Finally, many of the beaches and adjacent water are polluted, so venture away from the city for a cleaner sun and sand experience. But there is hope on the Atlantic horizon: the state of Bahia recently received a loan dedicated to improve environmental management, focusing on issues including water conservation, land preservation, and improved waste diversion and processing.

Depending on time, venture away from the Pelourinho: Barra, anchored by the iconic Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra, offers a scene of beach life and casual restaurants and bars. Ciudad Baixa, the commercial center, is a quick elevator ride away (take the public Elevador Lacerda, and determine if the R$0.30 fare is overpriced!), and is where you can depart by boat for nearby islands. And if you really crave a taste of home, the "shopping" (malls) around Salvador are an irresistible snapshot of middle class life in Salvador: Shopping Salvador is especially posh, and if you are going during Carnaval, Shopping Barra and Shopping Iguatemi are where you have to buy your tickets for the various events. An old city, Salvador's streets are not a grid, so taxis are a reality--the bus system is confusing for the non-Portuguese speaker, but we had almost no issues with taxi drivers.

Where to stay: Solar do Carmo +55 71 3323-0644, Rua Direita de Santo Antônio 108. Where else would you sleep? This restored colonial building, where Matt Damon once stayed, has rooms with exposed brick walls, balconies with views of the port. A friendly staff, led by the owners Stefano and Flávia, will make you feel at home and help you with travel arrangements elsewhere in Bahia. I appreciated their focus on energy-efficient fixtures, recycling efforts, and their limits on washing towels and linens. Breakfast here is a glorious morning routine: everything from the passion fruit and chocolate cakes, the mini pain au chocolate, sweet rolls and bread are handmade on the premises, thanks to Flávia's recipes passed down from her grandmother. Patricia, our favorite employee, will greet you with a blinding smile and serves up a delicious tapioca omelet, which pairs well with the freshly squeezed juice, fruit procured from local markets, and brazenly strong coffee. Listening to Flávia's story about her past pet swallow and chicken (which I selfishly refuse to share with anyone, they are so precious) are enough to make your visit to Salvador worth the trip. Flávia's paintings also adorn Solar do Carmo's walls. Best of all, you are less than 10 minutes by foot from the Pelourinho, yet far enough from its noise and crowds.

Where to eat: Restaurants in Salvador can be a challenge, as many in the Pelourinho are touristy; thankfully Stefano and Flávia insisted we avoid those often mentioned in guidebooks. La Figa (Rua das Laranjeiras 17, +55 71 3322-0066), on a side street in the Pelourinho, is sublime. This Italian restaurant serves up glorious fish, fresh pasta, and has tasty salads. Portal do Mar (Av Sete de Setembro 510, 55 71 3267-6250) in Barra also has a great menu. You can select their outstanding traditional moquecas (Bahian seafood stew), pastas, or meat and fish dishes. The owner studied at UC-Berkeley and can give you good advice for exploring Salvador.

Salvador’s Carnaval: 2 Nights With Daniela Mercury

Leon Kaye — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 05:17:57 +0000

It's been a couple weeks since our Carnaval experience in Salvador da Bahia, but the intensity and energy is still with us.

Carnaval brings just about every emotion in you. There is the exhilaration and joy of being with an enthusiastic and ecstatic group; boredom and ennui as you wait for your bloco to begin moving; disgust and anger, as you see the filth and get pushed around by the crowds, and relief yet disappointment when your bloco finally reaches the end of the circuit.

For two nights, we were in Daniela Mercury's bloco, Crocodilo. I think this was the best bloco to be in. First of all, Mercury, a Brazilian mega-star for over two decades, is representative of her native Bahia, and through her efforts, has made Salvador's Carnaval the penultimate show that it has become. Carnaval is also reflective of her career: the music there is mostly dominated by MBP ("Popular Brazilian Music"/Brazilian pop), axé, samba-reggae, electronica, and even some bossa nova, all genres that she has explored.

Here's how Carnaval in Salvador works. Unlike Rio's celebration, which is more ostentatious and vibrant, Salvador's is more participatory, like a giant roving concert. There are three (parade) circuits through the city. Stars like Mercury who perform have a trio elétrico, which is a jerry-rigged semi-truck retrofitted as a moving concert platform. If you are lucky to be one of the VIP's, you get to hang out here. What we did is buy an adabá, a t-shirt that allows you to tag along the trio. This t-shirt, which can set you back up to several hundred dollars, grants you access to a roped-off area that supposedly is safer than being among the crowds that line the circuits. If traipsing a few kilometers for several hours is not your fancy, then you can buy a ticket for a camarote, which is a huge grandstand-cum-dance floor where you can party away and watch each bloco saunter by.

This scene is not for everyone. Bathrooms are scarce; hence the need to leave your shoes in Brazil when you return home, as you won't want to wear them again. The claustrophobic also need not apply--the crush of the crowds can get overwhelming. There is also the risk of getting kissed by someone you may not (or may) want to lock lips with. And the environmental effects of all those cans and bottles, despite the recycling efforts of many, will make one cringe. Then there is the racial aspect: most of the spectators are poor and black. The poor folks who carry the ropes are mostly black, with some mestizo and mulatto. Those who wear the adabás are, well, mostly white.

What I found engaging about Mercury's bloco was the message she was trying to send. While other trios were slathered in Styrofoam or other noxious materials, her trio was slathered in native plants the first night. The second night, her trio was stunning: rows of plastic bottles were strung together and covered the trio, giving a sultry, luminous effect. Considering Mercury's years of involvement with UNAIDS, UNESCO, and other NGOs supporting her native Bahia, we should not be surprised by the message I assume she was attempting to convey.

I urge you to try Carnaval at least once. You will be smitten.

Heaven is Mangue Seco, Brazil

Leon Kaye — Sat, 20 Feb 2010 14:21:29 +0000

Mangue Seco is about 200 km northeast of Salvador da Bahia. We'll be here for 6 days total. It's wonderful--not much to do but enjoy the mangroves, palms, endless white beaches, fresh fruit, fresh fish, and the best ice cream ever. We do not want to leave. I cannot wait to write more about it! It is hard to get here. You basically have to hire a car and then a small boat takes you to your pousada (inn). Lack of infrastructure has kept this place prestine--for the most part.

While I still have 'net connection, I do have to say that our biggest disappointment is the garbage. Trash collection is haphazard at best. The views are splendid, but the plastic bottles and bags can spoil the mood. Some of it washes ashore from elsewhere, but too much of it is because of the locals. Our innkeeper, Ives, does what he can, but it's an uphill battle. If you're old enough to remember paper straws . . . I wonder what you have to say if I opine that we should bring them back, especially to a precious spot like Mangue Seco.

A Story Recycles

Leon Kaye — Mon, 18 Jan 2010 14:22:13 +0000

Companies from your corner hair salon to Wal-Mart are all on the sustainability bandwagon. When you walk into a shop, it's now common to be bombarded with signs bragging how "green" a company's "recycled" and "eco-friendly" products are. Professional services firms are riding this wave as well, creating "green" committees and including "sustainability" sections on their web sites.

Try selling this to Margie Pabigian, the facilities manager of a West LA law firm, and she'll just shrug her shoulders and laugh. Sustainability, recycling, and living simply has been her family's story for a long time.

Margie's story is the typical Armenian American success story that is easily repeated, yet has its own unique twists and turns. When her grandfather's family had to leave what is now Eastern Turkey, they knew they wanted to come to America, but the logistics were not exactly clear. A Mexican consular officer told them that spending some time south of the border would be easier than Canada, because they could easily enter California from Tijuana. Well, that was a lie. Margie's grandfather and his family had to live in Tijuana for a few years while their paperwork was processed. Eventually they settled in Los Angeles.

The years went by and Margie's father, Charlie, started his own business, United Paper Stock Co. He bought a truck, and traipsed all over Los Angeles, making deals with store owners to pick up their cardboard and other paper that the businesses otherwise would have disposed in the trash. What started as a part-time recycling gig really became an empire, with Charlie Pabigian's business taking over two and a half city blocks along 25th Street and Santa Fe Avenue in south-central Los Angeles. Charlie knew all the store owners, all about paper, how to make a deal, and treated his employees so well that they voted out the union to make his company a closed shop.

The result: Charlie and his wife were able to buy a house in San Marino for their 5 children. Yes, that San Marino, which was then probably one of the most "white" neighborhoods in LA. While Margie's and her siblings' peers were driving slick cars and tallying up the Christmas gifts, the Pabigian family lived simply and frugally with everyone contributing to the house's upkeep as well as the business--Margie, in fact, spent a couple of years helping her father in the office.

Fast forward years later. Margie has worked at her law firm for 21 years, watching many trends come and go. The younger lawyers at her firm are urging her to adopt more sustainable and eco-friendly products and services in the workplace--some out of advocacy, others because they want to build up a "green" practice and see the financial green that hopefully will result. Meanwhile, you have attorneys who have been at the firm for decades resisting any change. So what is the facilities manager to do?

Some want stricter recycling. Margie has assured them that she's visited the sorting facilities and yes, all that garbage gets sorted, even if there's no green bin. Others plant-based eating utensils, and Margie has to remind them that you have to compost because those forks made from corn cannot be recycled. There's a move to get rid of bottled water and replace it with pitchers and glasses, which Margie is all for, but she cannot follow staff around two floors and make sure all rules are followed without any lapse. She has been assured trainers will be brought in to explain all these new processes, but trying to get lawyers focused on billable hours away for 30 minutes is not the easiest task. So with any new procurement policy, Margie must do a cost benefit analysis to explain why all these new rules--in an office resistant to change--can be a positive change.

Some forces are beyond Margie's control. Construction companies do not build energy efficient offices because they are not the ones who will pay the utility bills. Tenants are often not concerned because they are more focused on the leasing terms, location, and perks such as the view. And dealing with the city or county is not often easy because trying to find a great point person involves a lot of phone calls that go no where and emails that are ignored--or bounce back.

In the end, making steps toward a more sustainable workplace require a lot of cajoling and employee engagement tactics that leave most HR professionals clueless. But in the end, taking the right steps can make good business sense. After all, Charlie Pabigian was a success story, building a life for his family by getting involved in sustainability before anyone ever used that word.

Special thanks to Margie Pabigian and her family for scanning and sharing these photos!