Sons of Gandhi

Walking through the narrow and winding cobblestone streets of Salvador during Carnaval, one stream of brilliant colors still sticks in my mind even though weeks have passed since our trip to northeast Brazil.  Those colors were blue and white, the markings of the Sons of Gandhi, or Filhos de Gandhy, a wave of several thousand men who have marched in Salvador’s Carnaval since 1949.

Experiencing Salvador’s Carnaval was definitely one of my travel highlights.  Some complain that the event has become too “corporate,” but like many labels, something that’s “corporate,” even if true, is not necessarily bad.  Based on the ecstatic faces on the  hundreds of thousands, or as some estimate, millions that flock into Salvador for the week of celebration and debauchery, the event seemed to be a genuinely convivial and quintessential Brazilian celebration to me.

The Sons of Gandhi have their origins in the late 1940s.  They were mostly stevedores, who went on strike and were inspired by Mohandas Gandhi’s message of non-violence and peaceful resistance.  When word of Gandhi’s assassination reached Brazil, the dockworkers decided to march in his name.

A few issues arose:  first, costumes.  Dockside prostitutes gave them sheets to use as robes, and towels to wrap around their heads so they could resemble Indians (as much as possible for Brazilians!).  They also wanted to shout traditional Yoruba chants that had made their way to Brazil due to their slave forbearers, but at the time, African religion was suppressed by the Catholic church’s leadership with the brutal assistance of the police.  By wearing their ersatz Indian costumes and cloaking themselves in Gandhi’s image of non-violence, the group could chant without provoking any police attacks.

Peace is still the guiding force of the Sons of Gandhi, who march at Salvador festivals throughout the year.  But Carnaval is still the afoxé, or march, of choice.  Of course peace is not the sole motivating factor:  judging by the eye candy that wander through the streets and the women (and men) who constantly follow them, meeting women is often behind joining and marching in this group.

Whatever the motivations may be, seeing the sea of blue and white--in fabrics, beads, and faux jewels--with the backdrop of Salvador’s antiquated, pastel-colored colonial buildings is one of the highlights of a trip to Salvador during Carnaval.  Throughout the streets in the old center, or Pelourinho, we watched men sitting in the streets, having the terrycloth towels wrapped into turbans on their heads; friends helping each other out, pinning their robes and pleating them so that they would drape just right; and kids and grandparents participating in the week long festivities.

Women are still not allowed to march with the group, adhering to the Sons of Gandhi’s core belief that men, women, and alcohol turn into fights.  To that end, members are not allowed to drink or do drugs during marches.

Carnaval’s trio eletricos are the stars of Salvador at night.  But during the day, wandering around Salvador’s old center and watching the Filhos de Gandhy in all their splendor gives anyone a sense of tranquility, knowing that whatever the underlying motives may be, the message of peace from a man who died over 60 years ago still resonates with the young.