Sanctuary in a Brazilian Ice Cream Store
Feb 28, 2010
10 Comments
Our second week in Brazil was spent in Mangue Seco, a two hour drive northeast of Salvador. I will write more about this spectacular corner of Bahia, which gave us one of the most restful and remote vacations we had ever experienced. But for now, allow me to indulge in one of our favorite pastimes: a daily visit to Recanto de Dona Sula, quite possibly one of the best ice cream shops I have ever visited.Recanto de Dona Sula is owned by relatives of Jorge Amado, one of the great Brazilian novelists of the twentieth century. Amado's later works were often written at this cozy store, which sits on the village's sandy plaza. Our daily routine in Mangue Seco was simple: spend most of the day exploring the endless beaches and sand dunes, with enough time to traipse on over to Dona Sula's for a cold, creamy dessert. If we went during the day, we only had a 5 minute walk along the beach--but once high tide hit, we had a 15 minute walk circumventing the sand dunes that would collapse under the march of our flip-flops.
I'm not sure what was more comforting: the care of the store's owner, Ana Flora Amado and her daughters, Roberta, and Renata--who happened to be visiting from São Paulo and Vienna, respectively--certainly gave us the opportunity to learn more about Mangue Seco and the changes it had endured since a Brazilian soap opera put this tiny peninsula on the map. The ice cream, the recipes of which Mrs. Amado learned from her mother, was sublime. Mrs. Amado prepares her ice cream in small batches, and the quality shows. Each day we had to plunge into two delicious scoops: I think my favorite was the guava with cream and the toasted coconut. But there were other flavors that sent our taste buds in a frenzy: chocolate with cashews, cashew fruit (cajá), dulce de leche, peanut (NOT peanut butter--there is a difference!), mango (with chunks of sweet fibrous flesh), and plum. Some flavors, such as pitanga and passion fruit (maracujá), were not available, because Ms. Amado only will prepare what is seasonally available. Keeping the store stocked is not an easy task: vendors selling produce only arrive about once a week by boat, so Ms. Amado has to buy supplies in Estancia, a small town across the river from Mangue Seco, or Aracaju, the state capital of Sergipe which is about a two hour boat and car trip away.
Ice cream is just the store's beginning. Homemade candies flood the store's displays, and we were lucky to try Renata's marzipan, which she had brought from Austria. The stewed fruit, especially the cajá, was rich and compacted with flavor. Then there were the snacks that made for a perfect small (but not light!) meal: empanadas of chicken, beef, or cheese; little sandwiches of sliced tomatoes, raisins, cheese, and mayonnaise, hardly intuitive but perfect on small rustic bread rolls; and pizza, which was only available if you gave them a three hour notice. And if you have more money to spend (as there is hardly any place to spend your money in Mangue Seco), the store's shelves are adorned with local crafts, gifts, and necessary supplies like toothpaste and sunscreen. If you hadn't picked up one of the ceramic baianas (Bahian woman in traditional dress--not your most p.c. caricature!) on your trip, Recanto de Dona Sula is a fun place to pick one up.Despite all of Recanto de Dona Sula's wares, the ice cream is the star. I rarely buy ice cream because in the USA, it's either too sweet or complicated. A good ice cream should be simple, with just one or two flavors complementing each other. The trip to Mangue Seco is not easy, but the memories of evenings spent in this charming little store, surrounded by little more than sand, coconut palms, and placating river breezes, makes the trip, without a doubt, well worth the effort.
Dear Leon,
I just got a call from Roberta, who is one of my best ever friends, ans she let me know about your review on Dona Sula Ice Cream Store. I’ve been in Mangue Seco for couple days (i guess in 2005) and also feel the taste of those delicious ice creams I tried at that time. I’m happy to know you enjoyed your time with Amado family. I have to confess I’m very fan of all of the three ones, Ana, Renata and Roberta. Come back to Brazil and go getting more ice cream from Dona Sula! Best regards, Guilherme / Sao Paulo
ps: in case of still being in Brazil or planning another trip, feel free to contact me to clarify something about my country.
Guilherme:
Visiting Mangue Seco was a wonderful experience–everyone was amazed we were there for 6 days, but I could have stayed much longer. And Recanto da Dona Sula made the experience there even more richer.
I hope to get to Brazil soon. We absolutely loved it there!
LK/GGP
[...] this patch of beaches, dunes, mangroves is not the place for you. Nightlife is at the adorable Recanto de Dona Sula, where you can get all kinds of snacks, gifts, beverages, and of course, the incomparable ice [...]
The place is wonderful!!! I agree with you.
Viviane
Thank you, Vivian. Recanto da Dona Sula truly is one of the most special places I have every traveled to!
Fiquei muito contente em saber que gostaram de Mangue Seco e também do atendimento do meu estabelecimento:Recanto dona Sula (nome de minha mãe).Espero encontra-los em breve para um abraço e um bate papo gostoso.Muito obrigada pelas palavras carinhosas.
Abraços
Ana Flora Amado
Sra. Amado,
Sua loja é um tesouro. Estávamos tão felizes para visitar! Obrigado por tudo!
Leon/GGP
[...] coffee and filling sandwiches. The best ice cream store in the world, however, is in Mangue Seco. Recanto de Dona Sula is brimming with love, and its owner and family make you feel as if you are part of a [...]
[...] around the globe endure to slather us with goods from chocolate to iPads. 10: A family run ice cream store in Mangue Seco, Brazil, captured my heart and taste buds, and somehow went viral. Too bad Recanto [...]
[...] is a three hour drive from Salvador but is in a different world. Its nightlife centers around the perfect ice cream store, owned by a literary family. Nights are lit by countless stars. Miles and kilometers of white [...]