Preserving and Celebrating Salvador

As much as I love visiting large cities and national capitals, having limited time abroad often denies you the opportunity to view the true soul of a country.  To me, Chicago presents visitors a near-perfect American city in architecture, culture, and spirit; Lyon reveals France's charm and cuisine; and Daejon allows you to glimpse everyday Korean life and a gateway to the country's spectacular nature.  Salvador lacks Rio's glamour or São Paulo's constant business drumbeat, but this city of 2 million, capital of the state of Bahia, is arguably the heart of Brazil.  Your initial impression of Salvador may be jarring, but that will quickly bloom into optimism and affection.

 

When entering the city by taxi from the airport, you will stare out the window at problems indicative of rapidly growing cities in developing (and developed!) countries:  a lack of public transportation and updated roads offering choking traffic; inadequate sanitation and education; and troubling poverty, evident in the countless people who walk along the highways, on foot because they cannot afford transportation of any means.

 

But just as you should not judge New Jersey by its turnpikes, do not blanch at Salvador because of your view from your taxi.  Arriving at your hotel, which hopefully is in Santo Antônio, you will appreciate the long history and timeless architecture that stretches across steep hills and narrow, winding streets.

 

Salvador is a fantastic example of preservation without perversion--rather than knocking down its colonial, art deco, and baroque mansions, Salvador celebrates its long history.  During the 1990s, the city undertook massive urban renewal:  buildings were repainted, repaired and re purposed into hotels, business, and restaurants.  Purists may cry foul over what they see as erasing Salvador's bohemian feel:  my response is that I am tired of travelers who think its fine for their home country to modernize and retrofit, but think far off exotic lands should look like National Geographic.  I assure you that Salvador is plenty bohemian enough.  I have not visited Africa yet--happily, Salvador, the center of Brazilian's African culture is the closest I have been!

 

Put on sturdy shoes and take a 5-10 minute stroll from your Santo Antônio hotel to the Pelourinho or (Pelô), Salvador's historic plaza and center.  Soaring baroque churches and vibrantly painted building facades may cause danger, only because if you are staring up too much you risk lodging your flip-flop or Jimmy Choo between a couple cobblestones (hint: wear sturdy shoes--I already told you!).  The Pelô is not just some contrived tourist trap:  you will notice a bevy of signs for cultural centers, music and dance schools, as well as studios for capoeira, a catchy Brazilian drum routine that combines fight, dance, and playful gamemanship.  Traipse around the Terreiro de Jesus, hopefully timed around a religious celebration, wander into its surrounding four churches, pose for a photo with the playful Baianas (the women who wear the romanticized traditional Bahian garb, or as my better half said, the "giant pincushions"), and be sure to drink plenty of water--the sultry humidity will zap you sooner than you think!

 

Speaking of water, Salvador has its environmental problems.  Despite the efforts of locals to recycle (by some accounts the poverty rate hovers at 50%, so seeing folks collect beverage containers is a common sight), garbage and recycling pose its challenges.  Brazil has an impressive renewable energy and ethanol program, but you can feel the emissions tingle on your skin while walking along a busy street.  Finally, many of the beaches and adjacent water are polluted, so venture away from the city for a cleaner sun and sand experience.  But there is hope on the Atlantic horizon:  the state of Bahia recently received a loan dedicated to improve environmental management, focusing on issues including water conservation, land preservation, and improved waste diversion and processing.

 

Depending on time, venture away from the Pelourinho:  Barra, anchored by the iconic Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra, offers a scene of beach life and casual restaurants and bars.  Ciudad Baixa, the commercial center, is a quick elevator ride away (take the public Elevador Lacerda, and determine if the R$0.30 fare is overpriced!), and is where you can depart by boat for nearby islands.  And if you really crave a taste of home, the "shopping" (malls) around Salvador are an irresistible snapshot of middle class life in Salvador:  Shopping Salvador is especially posh, and if you are going during Carnaval, Shopping Barra and Shopping Iguatemi are where you have to buy your tickets for the various events.  An old city, Salvador's streets are not a grid, so taxis are a reality--the bus system is confusing for the non-Portuguese speaker, but we had almost no issues with taxi drivers.

Where to stay:  Solar do Carmo +55 71 3323-0644, Rua Direita de Santo Antônio 108.  Where else would you sleep?  This restored colonial building, where Matt Damon once stayed, has rooms with exposed brick walls, balconies with views of the port.  A friendly staff, led by the owners Stefano and Flávia, will make you feel at home and help you with travel arrangements elsewhere in Bahia.  I appreciated their focus on energy-efficient fixtures, recycling efforts, and their limits on washing towels and linens.  Breakfast here is a glorious morning routine:  everything from the passion fruit and chocolate cakes, the mini pain au chocolate, sweet rolls and bread are handmade on the premises, thanks to Flávia's recipes passed down from her grandmother.  Patricia, our favorite employee, will greet you with a blinding smile and serves up a delicious tapioca omelet, which pairs well with the freshly squeezed juice, fruit procured from local markets, and brazenly strong coffee.  Listening to Flávia's story about her past pet swallow and chicken (which I selfishly refuse to share with anyone, they are so precious) are enough to make your visit to Salvador worth the trip.  Flávia's paintings also adorn Solar do Carmo's walls.  Best of all, you are less than 10 minutes by foot from the Pelourinho, yet far enough from its noise and crowds. 

 

Where to eat:  Restaurants in Salvador can be a challenge, as many in the Pelourinho are touristy; thankfully Stefano and Flávia insisted we avoid those often mentioned in guidebooks.  La Figa (Rua das Laranjeiras 17, +55 71 3322-0066), on a side street in the Pelourinho, is sublime.  This Italian restaurant serves up glorious fish, fresh pasta, and has tasty salads.  Portal do Mar (Av Sete de Setembro 510, 55 71 3267-6250) in Barra also has a great menu.  You can select their outstanding traditional moquecas (Bahian seafood stew), pastas, or meat and fish dishes.  The owner studied at UC-Berkeley and can give you good advice for exploring Salvador.