Persimmons, Nancy Reagan’s Contribution to Cuisine
Jan 02, 2011
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It may be hard to believe, but Ronald Reagan would have turned 100 this year, and Nancy Reagan turns 90. Memories of their time in Washington, DC are fading, but at one point, Ronnie and Nancy were credited with bringing a degree of style and glamour not seen since the Kennedy clan were in the White House. After all, the Reagan’s were preceded by the drab Carter’s and the frumpy Nixon’s--and while the Ford’s were barely there, Betty Ford shook up that southern town with her views on social issues that were mainstream at the time but scandalous back then. The Reagan's brought some panache to a town that can boast that it's the capital but by other metrics, pales compared to LA, New York, Chicago, and San Francisco--heck, even Seattle. Nancy Reagan, often mocked by the likes of Johnny Carson for her hair--and more maliciously for her loving gaze at Ronnie, her passion for astrology, and investment in new White House China--did make one contribution that has long been forgotten.
Nancy Reagan, or her hired help, were known for her mean persimmon pudding. Persimmons are one of the fruits often misunderstood and ignored. The soft ones, led by the Hachiya, are so astringent they must be eaten when they are super soft to the point of near rotting, or else their astringency will turn your mouth into cotton. The hard ones, such as the Fuyu variety, are more like an apple, and are fantastic peel and cut into a salad with nuts and berries--or just eaten like any other snack fruit.
Esquire ran Nancy’s recipe again two years ago, and having just made it tonight, I have to say it is fantastic. You must use the Hachiya or other soft persimmon, keeping them in a paper bag until they turn black. As for the preparation, I did not follow the directions entirely, which is normal for me unless directions involve a signed paycheck. Anyway, I did not have brandy, so I used dark rum. And I did not steam the combination (Esquire’s reprint was confusing), but after I combined the mixture, I baked it at low heat, at 250 degrees Fahrenheit, for about an hour. The result was like a soft cake--absolutely sublime.
Like the pomegranate and the quince, the persimmon is one of those odd fruits that is found in California, East Asia, the Balkans, and the Caucuses. Give either the hard or soft ones a try, and you can score them at an Asian or Middle Eastern market. They are generally a winter fruit, and should not be missed. Nancy Reagan (or her hired help!) sure know what to do with them!
Esquire ran Nancy’s recipe again two years ago, and having just made it tonight, I have to say it is fantastic. You must use the Hachiya or other soft persimmon, keeping them in a paper bag until they turn black. As for the preparation, I did not follow the directions entirely, which is normal for me unless directions involve a signed paycheck. Anyway, I did not have brandy, so I used dark rum. And I did not steam the combination (Esquire’s reprint was confusing), but after I combined the mixture, I baked it at low heat, at 250 degrees Fahrenheit, for about an hour. The result was like a soft cake--absolutely sublime.
Like the pomegranate and the quince, the persimmon is one of those odd fruits that is found in California, East Asia, the Balkans, and the Caucuses. Give either the hard or soft ones a try, and you can score them at an Asian or Middle Eastern market. They are generally a winter fruit, and should not be missed. Nancy Reagan (or her hired help!) sure know what to do with them! 

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