Last Sunrise in Mangue Seco

I can't believe it has already been a week since we left Mangue Seco, Brazil.  It truly was a place to get away from it all.  When we think about making an escape, we fantasize about the beach, but the reality is, famous resort areas like Hawaii, Cancun, Miami, Punta del Este, the French Riviera, and Phuket really just take you away from the crowds and noise at home to . . . crowds and noise at the beach.

 

Mangue Seco ("dry mangroves") is a refreshingly unique experience.  This little peninsula, where the Rio Real River and Atlantic Sea meet 200 kilometers northeast of Salvador da Bahia, Brazil, was unknown until 20 years ago.  A soap opera, Tieta do Agreste, based on a Jorge Amado character, was filmed here in the late 1980s, and then the word got out.  But not too many words.  Because no roads exist that can take you to this collection of sand dunes, it is a chore arriving here.  No direct bus service from Salvador is available, so the most realistic option is to hire a driver.  You then cross the Bahia-Sergipe state line, drive to a small village, Pontal, and from there a speed boat will pick you up, backtrack to Bahia and its secluded corner treasure, Mangue Seco, and take you to your pousada (inn).

 

Days in Mangue Seco flew by with gloriously little to do.  There are few cars, but you can hire a dune buggy to tour around the dunes--admittedly this made me cringe, but for the most part the buggies stay on the same tracks.  While they will take you for a long trip along the Atlantic beaches, they eventually reach a stop because of the sea turtle hatcheries managed by TAMAR, a Brazilian NGO.  Then there are the boats that can take you to the nearby small islands or pockets of mangroves.  If, however, you need to be constantly entertained, this patch of beaches, dunes, mangroves is not the place for you.  Nightlife is at the adorable Recanto de Dona Sula, where you can get all kinds of snacks, gifts, beverages, and of course, the incomparable ice cream.  Spend your nights gazing at the stars--you can actually see them!  I wish I had had an astronomy guide with me.

 

Our last full day we went kayaking, which was regretful only because we wished we had done so daily.  We paddled to a deserted sand bar named Ilha do Bobo, where there was nothing but an abandoned hut on stilts, birds, fish, and crabs.  Another 300 meters away there were isolated mangroves housing countless species of birds, including egrets, little blue herons, whimbrels, and tiny black-hooded antwrens chirp away.  You'll have no choice but to listen and watch the birds:  our kayaks got stuck in the rich silty mud, which by the way, makes for a great skin and facial mask.  I was low on sunscreen, so I slathered myself in the mess, thinking that spas back home would charge $200 for a tiny ramekin!

 

The day we left Mangue Seco, we decided to wake up early and go for one more kayaking excursion.  The sand had a soft yellow glow, the air still a bit crisp, and water no cooler than a lukewarm bath.  No sounds could be hear except for some birds and the occasional fish jumping in the water.  We kayaked one last time to Ilha do Bobo, gazed at the sleepy village, took in one last swim.

 

Few places exist where you can really get isolated and escape from it all.  Mangue Seco is not entirely pristine:  garbage was a problem (more on that!), and this area, with a population of 47 "families" (my response when I asked about the population), really cannot sustain any more development.  Experiencing the quiet and serene beauty was a wonderful opportunity, and we hope to go back.

 

Where to stay (and eat):  Pousada O Forte (+55-71-3445-9039; http://www.pousadaoforte.com/, rates about R$180 a night for a double), is really the only place you'd want to stay in Mangue Seco for several reasons.  First, Yves, the owner, takes great pains in minimizing the environmental impact of this pousada.  Pousada O Forte is the only pousada that does not schlep out its waste water into the river or ocean; they are adamant about limiting how often they change linens and towels; and Yves, a French national who has lived in Brazil for 6 years, works with the locals to keep Mangue Seco free from garbage.  Activities including kayaking, boating, and dune buggy excursions are available, and there is a small yet refreshing swimming pool.  The restaurant is excellent:  breakfasts spoil you with fresh regional fruit, homemade cakes and breads, good strong Brazilian coffee, and freshly squeezed juice.  Dinner offers fresh grilled seafood, savory meat, and for dessert, the maracuja (passion fruit) mousse is sublime.  Ives and his friendly staff will take good care of you.  The location is also perfect--you are a 10 minute walk from the Atlantic beaches, and during low tide, a 5 minute stroll from the village, or 15-20 minutes during high tide, when you can climb around the dunes.

Where to eat and relax every evening:  Recanto de Dona Sula, where else?  I wrote about their stellar ice creams, but you can also sip liqueurs that are not available elsewhere, buy homemade candies and fruit preserves, and snack on sandwiches and pizza.  There is also in immaculate gift shop and some toiletries for sale.  It is also the only store that makes an effort to recycle and minimize waste.  If you are lucky, you will enjoy a tour of their garden, which is breathtaking.