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Preserving and Celebrating Salvador

Leon Kaye — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 21:37:55 +0000

As much as I love visiting large cities and national capitals, having limited time abroad often denies you the opportunity to view the true soul of a country. To me, Chicago presents visitors a near-perfect American city in architecture, culture, and spirit; Lyon reveals France's charm and cuisine; and Daejon allows you to glimpse everyday Korean life and a gateway to the country's spectacular nature. Salvador lacks Rio's glamour or São Paulo's constant business drumbeat, but this city of 2 million, capital of the state of Bahia, is arguably the heart of Brazil. Your initial impression of Salvador may be jarring, but that will quickly bloom into optimism and affection.

When entering the city by taxi from the airport, you will stare out the window at problems indicative of rapidly growing cities in developing (and developed!) countries: a lack of public transportation and updated roads offering choking traffic; inadequate sanitation and education; and troubling poverty, evident in the countless people who walk along the highways, on foot because they cannot afford transportation of any means.

But just as you should not judge New Jersey by its turnpikes, do not blanch at Salvador because of your view from your taxi. Arriving at your hotel, which hopefully is in Santo Antônio, you will appreciate the long history and timeless architecture that stretches across steep hills and narrow, winding streets.

Salvador is a fantastic example of preservation without perversion--rather than knocking down its colonial, art deco, and baroque mansions, Salvador celebrates its long history. During the 1990s, the city undertook massive urban renewal: buildings were repainted, repaired and re purposed into hotels, business, and restaurants. Purists may cry foul over what they see as erasing Salvador's bohemian feel: my response is that I am tired of travelers who think its fine for their home country to modernize and retrofit, but think far off exotic lands should look like National Geographic. I assure you that Salvador is plenty bohemian enough. I have not visited Africa yet--happily, Salvador, the center of Brazilian's African culture is the closest I have been!

Put on sturdy shoes and take a 5-10 minute stroll from your Santo Antônio hotel to the Pelourinho or (Pelô), Salvador's historic plaza and center. Soaring baroque churches and vibrantly painted building facades may cause danger, only because if you are staring up too much you risk lodging your flip-flop or Jimmy Choo between a couple cobblestones (hint: wear sturdy shoes--I already told you!). The Pelô is not just some contrived tourist trap: you will notice a bevy of signs for cultural centers, music and dance schools, as well as studios for capoeira, a catchy Brazilian drum routine that combines fight, dance, and playful gamemanship. Traipse around the Terreiro de Jesus, hopefully timed around a religious celebration, wander into its surrounding four churches, pose for a photo with the playful Baianas (the women who wear the romanticized traditional Bahian garb, or as my better half said, the "giant pincushions"), and be sure to drink plenty of water--the sultry humidity will zap you sooner than you think!

Speaking of water, Salvador has its environmental problems. Despite the efforts of locals to recycle (by some accounts the poverty rate hovers at 50%, so seeing folks collect beverage containers is a common sight), garbage and recycling pose its challenges. Brazil has an impressive renewable energy and ethanol program, but you can feel the emissions tingle on your skin while walking along a busy street. Finally, many of the beaches and adjacent water are polluted, so venture away from the city for a cleaner sun and sand experience. But there is hope on the Atlantic horizon: the state of Bahia recently received a loan dedicated to improve environmental management, focusing on issues including water conservation, land preservation, and improved waste diversion and processing.

Depending on time, venture away from the Pelourinho: Barra, anchored by the iconic Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra, offers a scene of beach life and casual restaurants and bars. Ciudad Baixa, the commercial center, is a quick elevator ride away (take the public Elevador Lacerda, and determine if the R$0.30 fare is overpriced!), and is where you can depart by boat for nearby islands. And if you really crave a taste of home, the "shopping" (malls) around Salvador are an irresistible snapshot of middle class life in Salvador: Shopping Salvador is especially posh, and if you are going during Carnaval, Shopping Barra and Shopping Iguatemi are where you have to buy your tickets for the various events. An old city, Salvador's streets are not a grid, so taxis are a reality--the bus system is confusing for the non-Portuguese speaker, but we had almost no issues with taxi drivers.

Where to stay: Solar do Carmo +55 71 3323-0644, Rua Direita de Santo Antônio 108. Where else would you sleep? This restored colonial building, where Matt Damon once stayed, has rooms with exposed brick walls, balconies with views of the port. A friendly staff, led by the owners Stefano and Flávia, will make you feel at home and help you with travel arrangements elsewhere in Bahia. I appreciated their focus on energy-efficient fixtures, recycling efforts, and their limits on washing towels and linens. Breakfast here is a glorious morning routine: everything from the passion fruit and chocolate cakes, the mini pain au chocolate, sweet rolls and bread are handmade on the premises, thanks to Flávia's recipes passed down from her grandmother. Patricia, our favorite employee, will greet you with a blinding smile and serves up a delicious tapioca omelet, which pairs well with the freshly squeezed juice, fruit procured from local markets, and brazenly strong coffee. Listening to Flávia's story about her past pet swallow and chicken (which I selfishly refuse to share with anyone, they are so precious) are enough to make your visit to Salvador worth the trip. Flávia's paintings also adorn Solar do Carmo's walls. Best of all, you are less than 10 minutes by foot from the Pelourinho, yet far enough from its noise and crowds.

Where to eat: Restaurants in Salvador can be a challenge, as many in the Pelourinho are touristy; thankfully Stefano and Flávia insisted we avoid those often mentioned in guidebooks. La Figa (Rua das Laranjeiras 17, +55 71 3322-0066), on a side street in the Pelourinho, is sublime. This Italian restaurant serves up glorious fish, fresh pasta, and has tasty salads. Portal do Mar (Av Sete de Setembro 510, 55 71 3267-6250) in Barra also has a great menu. You can select their outstanding traditional moquecas (Bahian seafood stew), pastas, or meat and fish dishes. The owner studied at UC-Berkeley and can give you good advice for exploring Salvador.

Corporate Sustainability: Developing Strategy for a Leaner, Greener Footprint

Leon Kaye — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:47:09 +0000

Moving your company to a more sustainable, "carbon neutral," or "green" policy is a bold, cost-saving, and difficult shift for your firm and employees. Several factors can throw your plan awry, including:

- Unengaged employees resisting such a change.

- A misguided or inefficient allocation of resources.

- Poor communication throughout your organization.

If you and your company are serious about implementing a more sustainable business approach, you should treat this shift as a change in your company's strategy. View this changing dynamic as an opportunity to build value for your company--not as some austere measure that comes across as a punitive or limiting to your staff.

Corporate strategy, the subject--and its practitioners, the strategists--are fascinating, thought-provoking, overlooked, and oft-dismissed in the corporate world. The strategist's voice is often lost in the c-level suites and on the front lines, and the results show: research through which I have perused estimate that anywhere from 30 to 50% of a strategy's full potential value disappears during the organization and execution of the plan.

So how can your company ensure that a fundamental shift in business--in this case, a focus on sustainability--succeed for your firm? Let me share the following pointers:

Analyze your employees' preparedness for this change. If your firm undertakes regular employee evaluations and gathers engagement data, you are off to a strong start. Mine this information and save the company, time, money, and resources. Do your employees really believe that management listens? Do they think your company's policies are fairly implemented? Can your crew really work together? Understand the dynamics throughout your organization so you can pursue these changes smartly, staying aware of any potential pitfalls that could impede your organizations's quest for sustainability.
Identify the key managers and employees who are most likely to resist or even attack this change. Incorporate a process such as a "constituency analysis," which can assist you in customizing your "carbon footprint reduction" message to this group. Meanwhile, you should be working with other employees who are most receptive to this plan in building broad support.
Communicate this new "green" message incrementally in small peer groups. At the functional or peer level, and give customized presentations for various departments or divisions throughout your firm. How many times have you received a blast email from your CEO or SVP? And how often did you remember the message, say, 10 minutes later? Email and firm-wide voicemails are a great tool, but can also just add to the cacophonous messaging that frequently plagues organizations. By enlisting supporters for your company's green initiatives, you can tighten and modify this new plan as needed . . . while imparting to employees that their participation and impact are valued.
Don't overlook the middle managers. I have seen this often: the CEO wants change, the front-line employees get the message, but your managers and directors obfuscate the goals--not necessarily for nefarious reasons. Your managers are crucial. You cannot merely broadcast the "what" in your new agenda: articulate the "why" and "how." Outlinine the reasons why your past policies need to change--and reveal alternative options that were not followed. Frank, upfront, discussion about the "roads not taken" can build trust while revealing insight into how the executive team arrives at important decisions.

Clearly the scale of taking on such an initiative will depend on the size of your company. My purpose is to give you ideas on how to move your company forward on the sustainability track--the path companies like Google, eBay, and Walt Disney, Nokia and Wal-Mart arguably have taken. How you plan and communicate your new sustainable policies at the beginning will affect the ongoing and final results. Transforming your company's operations, vendors, supply chain, and properties can potentially cause chaos for your employees and stakeholders. Nevertheless, investing in a solid plan will make this process less painless, more profitable, and in the long run, engender a justifiable sense of pride throughout your organization.

I would appreciate hearing from anyone involved in this process, from the Chief Sustainable Officer to that recent new hire. Please share your challenges and successes!

Make the Winter Olympics Urban

Leon Kaye — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 02:00:21 +0000

We did not see much of the Vancouver Winter Olympics as we were in Brazil . . . though it was a delight to watch some events on Brazilian TV, which was uninterrupted by commercials! Whatever you may think of the Olympics, the athletic feats are impressive, the stories behind some of the Olympians are compelling, and it looks like Vancouver put on a great show. I'm not surprised--it's a beautiful city and the perfect place to showcase such an event.

Despite the angst over the money spent on the Olympic village and other facilities, overall, Vancouver had many of the venues already set up, such as GM Place and Pacific Coliseum. True, the controversy over expanding the road to Whistler riled some locals, but overall, the city could withstand the onslaught of visitors and building of venues that are necessary for a momentous two week extravaganza.

Summer Olympiads generally are held in national capitals or large cities of global importance (with the exception of Atlanta in 1996, a decision that still is odd to me!). Winter Olympics, however, generally have been held in small venues, in romantic places like Chamonix, Albertville, and Grenoble, France; St. Moritz, Switzerland; and Squaw Valley, California, which before 1960 had one ski lift. The past twenty years, larger cities such as Calgary, Salt Lake City, and Torino, Italy, have hosted the Winter Games, and that's a welcome trend.

Why? Awarding the Olympics to small cities means construction projects that are often overwhelmed by cost overruns, facilities that will hardly be used (or taken down after the games), and environmental damage that cannot be repaired for decades. True, past Olympiads in Lillehammer, Norway, and Nagano, Japan, have had a relatively modest environmental impact. And while emotionally, I think South Korea deserves the 2018 games, the thought of all the construction in PyeongChang worries me. The Korean organizers may say these will be a "Green" Olympics, but bulldozing forests and building huge hotels, roads, and athletic facilities is hardly "environmental," no matter how many solar panels or "sustainably harvested" building materials are used for these projects. Perhaps some facilities and hotels could be in Sokcho, a charming city on Korea's eastern coast that is a pleasant town full of friendly locals?

Let's take a look at Sochi, Russia, the host of the 2014 Winter Olympic Games. This subtropical town is already established as a resort (thanks to Stalin), but the preparations for the games already look disastrous. Roads and rail lines are going through national parks and other areas hosting wildlife. Environmentalists, activists, journalists, and anyone opening their mouths are being harassed by Vladimir Putin's cronies. Thousands have been forced out of their homes, allegedly forced to sell for less than market value. Then you have all the corruption allegations that are plaguing the construction around Sochi . . . one highway being built is costing about US$130 million a kilometer! Never mind the fact that Sochi is one of the few places in Russia that does not see snow--most events will be held in the nearby mountains, while ice skating and hockey will be held among the town's palm trees. You would think that there are other cities in Russia that have the population and infrastructure in place to hold the games, but my guess is that Putin saw the potential in skimming off millions from construction projects . . . and in fairness, Russia did get the short end of the baton when Jimmy Carter (foolishly) boycotted the 1980 Summer Games in Moscow because of the USSR's invasion of Afghanistan.

Unfortunately, the International Olympic Committee's decisions are fueled by politics, a trend accelerated by Juan Antonio Samaranch, a social-climbing Francisco Franco insider who insisted on being called "His Excellency" and who transformed the Olympics from an amateur competition to one that has become a mega-corporate indulgent lovefest. Sadly, cities and countries will drive themselves into debt to host these games . . . and are often left with a long post-Olympic hangover, as in the case of Montreal and Athens. But at least these are cities where you already have development. There are already plenty of cities around the world that have the stadia, hotels, and roads that can support the Olympics. So instead of turning a small resort into a destructive construction zone, let's be "green" by hosting such events in places such as Vienna, Helskini, Santiago, or Quebec City than can sustain them.

Parkman Triangle Hits Pay Dirt!

Leon Kaye — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 19:58:18 +0000

Well, actually it was free dirt. It's been an eye-opening experience working on the Parkman Triangle Project. I've spent many hours this month calling contractors, from trucking companies to landscapers to plumbers to dirt companies. What money we have really needs to go to plumbing, so to save about $2500, we decided to see what we could scrounge up from contractors who are working on projects and need to dump their dirt.

I spent a mad dash on the phones yesterday calling folks that our lead architect, John Southern, had passed on to me. Everyone was very helpful, and told me that they'd dial up friends and peers who were working on projects . . . so if we got a call, we'd better get ready!

The plan was to get on the phones, network, add some content on my side, and walk the shih-tzu when I got a call from a contractor, Eddie, working on a hillside project in Echo Park! I could barely hear him . . . "We have one or two truckloads of dirt! We can dump it now!"

By the time I threw on my clothes and grabbed the work gloves, the fellow, Eddie, called me again . . . and the magic was waiting, a block away. I never thought I'd get so excited at the sight of a dump truck! Turns out, Eddie had three loads of dirt. We need about 8 truckloads, so this will help out a lot. But it was just John and me, so this morning was spent shoveling, shoveling, and shoveling, with the occasional crossing guard duty to halt traffic as the worker returned with another load of dirt.

It turns out that the contractor many not necessarily save money by diverting this waste from a dump, but it saves him time so he can continue the project. For thinking of us when he's busy trying to get his work done, we're grateful to Eddie.

Eddie was referred to us by a fellow at a trucking company who couldn't help us but got on the horn. He didn't want his name mentioned, but we also want to thank this random chap out there who took the time out of his schedule (at the risk of irritating his boss!) to help us hit with our project, which will give our part of Silver Lake much needed green space.

We'll be working on this over the weekend and the following weekend, too. A call for volunteers may come out shortly. Follow us on Facebook if you think you can join us!

And here's a clip of PT getting its new foundation . . .

Last Sunrise in Mangue Seco

Leon Kaye — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 23:52:05 +0000

I can't believe it has already been a week since we left Mangue Seco, Brazil. It truly was a place to get away from it all. When we think about making an escape, we fantasize about the beach, but the reality is, famous resort areas like Hawaii, Cancun, Miami, Punta del Este, the French Riviera, and Phuket really just take you away from the crowds and noise at home to . . . crowds and noise at the beach.

Mangue Seco ("dry mangroves") is a refreshingly unique experience. This little peninsula, where the Rio Real River and Atlantic Sea meet 200 kilometers northeast of Salvador da Bahia, Brazil, was unknown until 20 years ago. A soap opera, Tieta do Agreste, based on a Jorge Amado character, was filmed here in the late 1980s, and then the word got out. But not too many words. Because no roads exist that can take you to this collection of sand dunes, it is a chore arriving here. No direct bus service from Salvador is available, so the most realistic option is to hire a driver. You then cross the Bahia-Sergipe state line, drive to a small village, Pontal, and from there a speed boat will pick you up, backtrack to Bahia and its secluded corner treasure, Mangue Seco, and take you to your pousada (inn).

Days in Mangue Seco flew by with gloriously little to do. There are few cars, but you can hire a dune buggy to tour around the dunes--admittedly this made me cringe, but for the most part the buggies stay on the same tracks. While they will take you for a long trip along the Atlantic beaches, they eventually reach a stop because of the sea turtle hatcheries managed by TAMAR, a Brazilian NGO. Then there are the boats that can take you to the nearby small islands or pockets of mangroves. If, however, you need to be constantly entertained, this patch of beaches, dunes, mangroves is not the place for you. Nightlife is at the adorable Recanto de Dona Sula, where you can get all kinds of snacks, gifts, beverages, and of course, the incomparable ice cream. Spend your nights gazing at the stars--you can actually see them! I wish I had had an astronomy guide with me.

Our last full day we went kayaking, which was regretful only because we wished we had done so daily. We paddled to a deserted sand bar named Ilha do Bobo, where there was nothing but an abandoned hut on stilts, birds, fish, and crabs. Another 300 meters away there were isolated mangroves housing countless species of birds, including egrets, little blue herons, whimbrels, and tiny black-hooded antwrens chirp away. You'll have no choice but to listen and watch the birds: our kayaks got stuck in the rich silty mud, which by the way, makes for a great skin and facial mask. I was low on sunscreen, so I slathered myself in the mess, thinking that spas back home would charge $200 for a tiny ramekin!

The day we left Mangue Seco, we decided to wake up early and go for one more kayaking excursion. The sand had a soft yellow glow, the air still a bit crisp, and water no cooler than a lukewarm bath. No sounds could be hear except for some birds and the occasional fish jumping in the water. We kayaked one last time to Ilha do Bobo, gazed at the sleepy village, took in one last swim.

Few places exist where you can really get isolated and escape from it all. Mangue Seco is not entirely pristine: garbage was a problem (more on that!), and this area, with a population of 47 "families" (my response when I asked about the population), really cannot sustain any more development. Experiencing the quiet and serene beauty was a wonderful opportunity, and we hope to go back.

More about Mangue Seco:

Where to stay (and eat): Pousada O Forte (+55-71-3445-9039; http://www.pousadaoforte.com/, rates about R$180 a night for a double), is really the only place you'd want to stay in Mangue Seco for several reasons. First, Yves, the owner, takes great pains in minimizing the environmental impact of this pousada. Pousada O Forte is the only pousada that does not schlep out its waste water into the river or ocean; they are adamant about limiting how often they change linens and towels; and Yves, a French national who has lived in Brazil for 6 years, works with the locals to keep Mangue Seco free from garbage. Activities including kayaking, boating, and dune buggy excursions are available, and there is a small yet refreshing swimming pool. The restaurant is excellent: breakfasts spoil you with fresh regional fruit, homemade cakes and breads, good strong Brazilian coffee, and freshly squeezed juice. Dinner offers fresh grilled seafood, savory meat, and for dessert, the maracuja (passion fruit) mousse is sublime. Ives and his friendly staff will take good care of you. The location is also perfect--you are a 10 minute walk from the Atlantic beaches, and during low tide, a 5 minute stroll from the village, or 15-20 minutes during high tide, when you can climb around the dunes.

Where to eat and relax every evening: Recanto de Dona Sula, where else? I wrote about their stellar ice creams, but you can also sip liqueurs that are not available elsewhere, buy homemade candies and fruit preserves, and snack on sandwiches and pizza. There is also in immaculate gift shop and some toiletries for sale. It is also the only store that makes an effort to recycle and minimize waste. If you are lucky, you will enjoy a tour of their garden, which is breathtaking.

Another Falkland Islands War?

Leon Kaye — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 17:56:39 +0000

Probably not. Despite the oft-heard cliché, history does not repeat myself. But once again, an unpopular Argentine government is stirring up deep nationalistic feelings as a distraction from its failed policies.

I have vague memories, around junior high years, when Argentina's then-military junta, unable to tackle growing economic problems, diverted attention by invading the Falkland Islands in 1982. They gambled that a British empire in decline would make little, if any, effort, to reclaim a few rocky islands a few hundred miles east of southern Argentina. But Madame Thatcher found her inner Reagan, the QE2 was retrofitted for a military effort, and after a few months, the Falklands remain part of what few crumbs remain of the United Kingdom's once global domination. The war, in an odd way, was a victory for Argentina's people, too: the military government fell into decline, and Argentina quickly returned to democracy.

Having visited Argentina three times, it was an easy country to fall in love with: its vibrant people, its rustic landscape, grand boulevards that make Madrid look like a village, and a cuisine that will make a carnivorous foodie out of the most strident vegan. At the same time, I felt a little wistful and sad not over what Argentina is or was, or what it could have been: a global power to be admired and taken seriously. Reminders are plentiful: the huge monuments that need upkeep; the grand building facades in Buenos Aire's San Telmo district overlooking mounds of garbage; and small towns full of young people who are eager to leave. What struck me the most are the signs and memorials for the Malvinas, the name Argentina has given to that little archipelago.

Both countries have their points in staking their claims to the Falklands. For the most part, any settlers here were Anglo, with the exception of some Argentines who were ousted when the UK reclaimed the islands in 1833. Most of the 3,000 or so residents have ties to Britain and wish to remain part of the UK. Furthermore, while most Falklanders do not consider their isles a "colony," they have no desire to join Argentina. And based on the United Nations' policy of respecting self-determination, their sentiment seems to seal the deal.

It does seem odd, however, that there is a European territory in Latin American waters. The days of far-flung colonial powers are over, and strategically and logically, there really is no need for the UK to hang on to the Falklands (but wait, read on!). Argentines argue that the UK "occupation" of the Falklands is a historical anomaly due to some bizarre chain of events back in 1833. Well, if boundaries should remain the way they were in 1833, my Texan friends and I would be in Mexico, Bolivia would have a coastline, Brazil's state of Acre would be in Bolivia, southern Argentina would be an independent nation run by native peoples, and parts of Canada may very well be US states.

Let me give you some additional context. One hundred years ago, many poor people left an oppressive land offering little opportunity (Europe), and they had two great choices where they could start over: North America (generally the USA), and South America (Argentina, especially for Italians). Argentina at one time arguably was a G-7 country. It had abundant land, industry, and in 1929, had the fourth highest per capita GDP. But there were structural issues: while the US government gave land away to anyone (white) would could settle and farm it, land in Argentina was mostly held by a few wealthy families--leading to the country's income disparity today. Later, while the USA eventually recovered from the Great Depression, Argentina succumbed to government corruption, military coups, a bad trade agreement with the UK, and inept dictator after inept dictator. Argentina did some good things--they allowed many Jews to escape Europe and resettle there; farms continued to provide abundant harvests; and its people have always been very educated.

We'll fast-forward to now. Suddenly a small energy company, Desire Petroleum, has discovered evidence of oil--perhaps even 60 billion barrels lie under the Falklands. (The timing is not great for renewable energy advocates--currently the Falklands are close to gaining 40% of their electricity from wind and other renewables.). Meanwhile, the once-destitute Falklands have grown rich over fishing, sheep, and tourism--and enjoys a per capita income exceeding their hopeful motherland to the west. Argentina has reacted to this potential windfall by banning charter flights and ships from its land to the Falklands. Rather quickly, friendly relations between the UK and Argentina have disintegrated.

Argentina president Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, and her husband (the previous president), are now deeply unpopular. Rising inflation, unemployment, a struggling private sector, and suggestions the Bill & Hillary of Argentina are becoming more rich have tarnished their reputations. But the chance of oil reserves in the Falklands has given them a trump card.

Perhaps the Kirchners should mind their own house first. Many private companies (especially in the energy sector) feel harassed by the Kirchners and their cronies (friends, however, are doing quite well!). While Brazil has become the leader in Latin America's economy and political scene, Argentina is a mere laughable sideshow, and it's a shame. Other nations with center-left leadership, such as Uruguay and Chile, are doing relatively well compared to their neighbor. Alas, Argentina and its 40 million people could and should do better.

Perhaps it's strange for a site that advocates renewable fuels to suggest this, but rather than cynically rally its people to a lost cause, Argentina could find some sort of financial arrangement with Desire, the Falklands, and the UK. Oil is not going away until alternative energy sources are scalable and profitable. In an ideal world, such revenues could go towards education and infrastructure projects: attracting more private investment and innovation that paired with Argentina's spirited, talented, and industrious people, could, in the long run, inspire a more sustainable economy that capitalizes on Argentina's natural wealth.

I may have opened a can, but I would like to hear from folks in Argentina or the UK. Or perhaps . . . the Falklands?

Your Internal Controls – Keep Your Firm in the “Green”

Leon Kaye — Mon, 01 Mar 2010 17:57:23 +0000

It's tax season, so I want to spend some time discussing how you can keep your firm humming, as it is easy to get distracted by the everyday fires you need to put out while seizing promising business opportunities. If you are a small or medium-sized company that is privately held, you are not subjected to the oft-draconian regulations under the Sarbanes Oxley Act. But whether you are based in the United States or are a subsidiary of a non-US firm, here are some suggestions to keep in mind--and to keep that company traffic light green as your company, hopefully, will find more success in this nascent green economy.

Mandatory vacation policy for all employees. You should require that all employees take at least one business week of vacation per year. View this as an opportunity to cross-train your staff and furthering their professional development, while guaranteeing that critical functions do not stall while one or more of your team is on leave. While someone on staff is away, someone else can oversee his or her functions, allowing your internal auditing to continue seamlessly.
Segregate duties. At the same time, there should be a dichotomy in employees' tasks so that no one employee (or group) has an opportunity to commit--and then hide--any fraud or mistakes in the normal course of their everyday duties. Payroll is one example: the person preparing the paychecks should not be the one distributing them.
Update your policies and procedures regularly. One example is travel and expense reimbursements, which can change quickly as IRS regulations change--such as de minimus thresholds and mileage allowances. Keeping all policies up to date and documented can allow for periodic auditing of employee reimbursements less cumbersome for your accounting department.
Company credit cards. I have mixed feelings about company credit cards. They are certainly more convenient for employees, but unless you have a rigorous expense tracking system, they can invite problems. Employees tend to be more conscious when they are spending their money first and have to wait for a reimbursement check. One suggestion to allay employees' concerns is to reimburse employees' annual fees for credit cards frequent-flier or similar reward programs. True, employees will not be happy about having only 20-30 days to pay off their balances to avoid paying interest, but this also helps prevent them from falling behind in expense reports while allowing your firm to keep its books up to date.
To the owner or CEO--take control! You, the one running your show, should open all bank statements and review them before sending them to your accounting department for reconciliation. If you are overwhelmed or constantly on the road, consider having one of your trusted staff perform this duty. Make sure you search for anything unusual, such as unfamiliar vendors, and ask your support staff pointed questions. You are imparting to your employees that you are monitoring their work--hopefully in a way that is engaging and not accusatory.
Take advantage of your bank's Positive Pay services. Positive Pay is a relatively simple fraud detection tool that your bank should offer its customers. Under this system, a firm is required to send a list of check numbers each day checks are written. When these checks are presented for payment at a financial institution, they are compared against the list of transmitted checks. When a check appears that does not match the file of check numbers, it is flagged, and an electronic or faxed image is sent to you, the client. You then must instruct the bank to either pay the check or return it to you.
Insist on proper documentation. When you are signing checks, always review and then enclose copies of invoices and purchase orders, allowing for easy review and authorization of the expense.

Clearly I left out some pointers: performing background checks of prospective employees, restricting access to checks, and having the appropriate software platform supporting the needs of your business. I have had clients and colleagues in the past suggest other tips, such as having checks mailed to a PO box or home instead of the office, closing dormant accounts, and eliminating stamps or signature machines in the office.

Having worked for online business and securities research firms in the past, paired with my experience working with smaller companies and start-ups, I have heard too many stories about companies running into problems because of lax oversight. I do not offer these tips to cause mistrust or paranoia; rather, view these as an opportunity to build up rapport and credibility with your staff.

What have been your most effective tactics for ensuring smooth internal control procedures? I welcome your feedback.

Sanctuary in a Brazilian Ice Cream Store

Leon Kaye — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 22:03:06 +0000

Our second week in Brazil was spent in Mangue Seco, a two hour drive northeast of Salvador. I will write more about this spectacular corner of Bahia, which gave us one of the most restful and remote vacations we had ever experienced. But for now, allow me to indulge in one of our favorite pastimes: a daily visit to Recanto de Dona Sula, quite possibly one of the best ice cream shops I have ever visited.

Recanto de Dona Sula is owned by relatives of Jorge Amado, one of the great Brazilian novelists of the twentieth century. Amado's later works were often written at this cozy store, which sits on the village's sandy plaza. Our daily routine in Mangue Seco was simple: spend most of the day exploring the endless beaches and sand dunes, with enough time to traipse on over to Dona Sula's for a cold, creamy dessert. If we went during the day, we only had a 5 minute walk along the beach--but once high tide hit, we had a 15 minute walk circumventing the sand dunes that would collapse under the march of our flip-flops.

I'm not sure what was more comforting: the care of the store's owner, Ana Flora Amado and her daughters, Roberta, and Renata--who happened to be visiting from São Paulo and Vienna, respectively--certainly gave us the opportunity to learn more about Mangue Seco and the changes it had endured since a Brazilian soap opera put this tiny peninsula on the map. The ice cream, the recipes of which Mrs. Amado learned from her mother, was sublime.

Mrs. Amado prepares her ice cream in small batches, and the quality shows. Each day we had to plunge into two delicious scoops: I think my favorite was the guava with cream and the toasted coconut. But there were other flavors that sent our taste buds in a frenzy: chocolate with cashews, cashew fruit (cajá), dulce de leche, peanut (NOT peanut butter--there is a difference!), mango (with chunks of sweet fibrous flesh), and plum. Some flavors, such as pitanga and passion fruit (maracujá), were not available, because Ms. Amado only will prepare what is seasonally available. Keeping the store stocked is not an easy task: vendors selling produce only arrive about once a week by boat, so Ms. Amado has to buy supplies in Estancia, a small town across the river from Mangue Seco, or Aracaju, the state capital of Sergipe which is about a two hour boat and car trip away.

Ice cream is just the store's beginning. Homemade candies flood the store's displays, and we were lucky to try Renata's marzipan, which she had brought from Austria. The stewed fruit, especially the cajá, was rich and compacted with flavor. Then there were the snacks that made for a perfect small (but not light!) meal: empanadas of chicken, beef, or cheese; little sandwiches of sliced tomatoes, raisins, cheese, and mayonnaise, hardly intuitive but perfect on small rustic bread rolls; and pizza, which was only available if you gave them a three hour notice. And if you have more money to spend (as there is hardly any place to spend your money in Mangue Seco), the store's shelves are adorned with local crafts, gifts, and necessary supplies like toothpaste and sunscreen. If you hadn't picked up one of the ceramic baianas (Bahian woman in traditional dress--not your most p.c. caricature!) on your trip, Recanto de Dona Sula is a fun place to pick one up.

Despite all of Recanto de Dona Sula's wares, the ice cream is the star. I rarely buy ice cream because in the USA, it's either too sweet or complicated. A good ice cream should be simple, with just one or two flavors complementing each other. The trip to Mangue Seco is not easy, but the memories of evenings spent in this charming little store, surrounded by little more than sand, coconut palms, and placating river breezes, makes the trip, without a doubt, well worth the effort.

Salvador’s Carnaval: 2 Nights With Daniela Mercury

Leon Kaye — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 05:17:57 +0000

It's been a couple weeks since our Carnaval experience in Salvador da Bahia, but the intensity and energy is still with us.

Carnaval brings just about every emotion in you. There is the exhilaration and joy of being with an enthusiastic and ecstatic group; boredom and ennui as you wait for your bloco to begin moving; disgust and anger, as you see the filth and get pushed around by the crowds, and relief yet disappointment when your bloco finally reaches the end of the circuit.

For two nights, we were in Daniela Mercury's bloco, Crocodilo. I think this was the best bloco to be in. First of all, Mercury, a Brazilian mega-star for over two decades, is representative of her native Bahia, and through her efforts, has made Salvador's Carnaval the penultimate show that it has become. Carnaval is also reflective of her career: the music there is mostly dominated by MBP ("Popular Brazilian Music"/Brazilian pop), axé, samba-reggae, electronica, and even some bossa nova, all genres that she has explored.

Here's how Carnaval in Salvador works. Unlike Rio's celebration, which is more ostentatious and vibrant, Salvador's is more participatory, like a giant roving concert. There are three (parade) circuits through the city. Stars like Mercury who perform have a trio elétrico, which is a jerry-rigged semi-truck retrofitted as a moving concert platform. If you are lucky to be one of the VIP's, you get to hang out here. What we did is buy an adabá, a t-shirt that allows you to tag along the trio. This t-shirt, which can set you back up to several hundred dollars, grants you access to a roped-off area that supposedly is safer than being among the crowds that line the circuits. If traipsing a few kilometers for several hours is not your fancy, then you can buy a ticket for a camarote, which is a huge grandstand-cum-dance floor where you can party away and watch each bloco saunter by.

This scene is not for everyone. Bathrooms are scarce; hence the need to leave your shoes in Brazil when you return home, as you won't want to wear them again. The claustrophobic also need not apply--the crush of the crowds can get overwhelming. There is also the risk of getting kissed by someone you may not (or may) want to lock lips with. And the environmental effects of all those cans and bottles, despite the recycling efforts of many, will make one cringe. Then there is the racial aspect: most of the spectators are poor and black. The poor folks who carry the ropes are mostly black, with some mestizo and mulatto. Those who wear the adabás are, well, mostly white.

What I found engaging about Mercury's bloco was the message she was trying to send. While other trios were slathered in Styrofoam or other noxious materials, her trio was slathered in native plants the first night. The second night, her trio was stunning: rows of plastic bottles were strung together and covered the trio, giving a sultry, luminous effect. Considering Mercury's years of involvement with UNAIDS, UNESCO, and other NGOs supporting her native Bahia, we should not be surprised by the message I assume she was attempting to convey.

I urge you to try Carnaval at least once. You will be smitten.

The Chilean Earthquake – How to Help

Leon Kaye — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 04:29:36 +0000

It's devastating to read about the destruction in Chile. I visited the country in 2006, and was impressed with the optimism, self-reliance, and grit of the Chilean people. The company had made enormous strides since the terror of the Pinochet years. I have a good friend that lives in the southern city of Pucon, and while news accounts I've read state that the damage there is mostly minor, I cannot help but feel anxious.

Damage in Valparaiso, an old city laced with funiculars, sound particularly wrenching. Other cities including Santiago and Talca, near the epicenter, have had horrific damage.

Here are some links to some NGOs that are assisting with earthquake relief:

AmeriCares

Direct Relief International

Oxfam

Catholic Relief Services

World Vision International

A night of Candomblé

Leon Kaye — Thu, 25 Feb 2010 18:00:24 +0000

Mweeer--aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah!!!!!!!

That roar from the young woman in a deep trance will always stay with me; it certainly symbolized our trip to Salvador da Bahia!

For our last night in Salvador, we went to a terreiro, or Candomblé hall. It was a last minute plan--during our trip to Mangue Seco, Flavia, our Salvador hotel's owner, tried finding us a Candomblé ceremony that we would be able to attend. She was not having any luck, so it seemed our last night in this fantastic city would be spent walking around the Pelourinho, the city's old historic center. That would have been all right, but we would have missed out on one aspect of Brazilian life that makes this country keep pulling you back to visit.

Quick summary of Candomblé: African slaves brought this religion to Brazil, and incorporated some Catholic traditions. Candomblé centers around the orixás, each of which having a unique personality and history. Followers of Candomblé believe that every person has one particular deity that watches over them from birth to death. The rituals were often held in secret during slavery, and for decades afterward: Candomblé ceremonies often resulted in violence and even death, as the government had banned the practice until 1976.

Resigned to the fact we would not witness such a ceremony, we stepped out for a few minutes to by some Candomblé amulets at an antique store down the street. When we returned to the lobby, Patricia, the receptionist and cook who had taken such good care of us during our stay, furiously motioned that we were to meet Flavia in the lobby at 6:45. It turned out that Flavia had never been to a Candomblé ceremony and would come with us to Federação, a neighborhood in the southern part of the city.

The rules were pretty simple-we were to wear a white shirt and no black. We could not take videos or pictures. Men and women had to sit apart. And we had to be patient.

The evening started slowly. The terreiro, covered with red and white bunting, images of Candomblé , and rococo-esque chairs, was packed to capacity and it was stuffy. I could barely stay awake, and my back was killing me as the only place I could sit offered only enough room for half of my rear end. I finally stood up and leaned against wall, but my eyes could barely stay open.

The first part of the ceremony was engaging: the dancers, women wearing hoop skirts and colorful prints, chanted in Yoruba while walking counter clockwise, which represented the rolling back of time as they reached out to their ancestors. Worshippers continued to file in, grasping one another's arms and kissing each other's hands. The routine, full of percussion rhythms and intense changing, lasted for about 45 minutes until the participants went outside. I was exhausted, then finally dragged myself outside out of curiosity, as the women handed out food to anyone who was interested--a mix of yucca flour, beans, and stewed chicken wrapped in a huge wreath of leaves.

We were then told that the second act would begin, and then the ceremony became very enticing. Some women began wailing and screaming, such as the young woman I had mentioned who clearly had channeled the energy of her inner orixá. Others were also in a trance-like state, with their eyes rolling to the back of their heads. But I could not keep my eye off of that one participant--awake and smiling one moment, eyes tightly clamped shut the next, strutting almost violently, having the other woman help her stay upright--it was all a riveting scene that slapped me out of my stupor.

Unfortunately, we could not stay for the entire ceremony, which could have lasted for hours. First we were lamely told that we could only stay two hours. Then we were told that we were in a dangerous, drug-infested neighborhood and to stay would put as at risk. Such was typical of the one criticism I have of Brazilians--they are overly critical about the safety of their country. We would have stayed, but we had to get up at 5 a.m. for our flight the next morning. It was too bad, as the ceremony would have really taken off--costume changes, more chanting, more trances--I wish I could have seen it all, but I was grateful for the opportunity, as these ceremonies are not events you simply walk up to--you generally need some kind of connection. Considering how Candomblé believers had been treated in the past, such skepticism is understandable.

Candomblé does bring out various extremes of emotions in Brazilians, I must say--exhibited by the evangelist church that was across the street, which we were told was no mere coincidence.

The evening was a fascinating glimpse of one slice of Brazilian life. I hope this custom is never lost; it was one of the most enriching cultural experiences I have ever witnessed!

One of my fellow participants smuggled a quick peak with his mini-video camera that was tucked into his shirt pocket--click on the video above to get the tiniest snippet about what our evening was all about!

Parkman Triangle: Stage One!

Leon Kaye — Thu, 25 Feb 2010 00:24:57 +0000

I was thrilled to find out that work Parkman Triangle Park has finally started. I took the dog out for a walk to see for myself, and I like what's been done!

The asphalt has been ripped out, and soon the water main can be installed. It turned out to be quite a job. The workers who were at the site told me that it turned out there were two layers of asphalt: one was the original street, and then you had the top layer which has been home to illegal parking and Sunday flea markets for years. The workers seemed excited about this project, too: they had also worked on a similar greening project in East Hollywood.

After two years of meetings, proposals, and hand-wringing, it's exciting to see the progress!

Some of us are meeting later in the week to discuss the bids we have received for various stages of work. It's encouraging to see the support and enthusiasm of so many contractors!

Will the Bloom Box Rock?

Leon Kaye — Thu, 25 Feb 2010 00:12:08 +0000

"It's about seeing the world as what it can be and not what it is." - K.R. Sridhar, founder and CEO of Bloom Energy.

I come back from Brazil, functioning on two nights of little sleep, but I cannot restrain myself from gushing and hoping that the much hyped "Bloom Box," which launched today, will revamp our nation's infrastructure over the next several years.

Not having read much news the past two weeks, I was jolted by friend and former classmate now studying in Denmark, who sent me a quick one-line email asking me what I thought about the Bloom Box, the creation of Bloom Energy, a Silicon Valley start-up that has received hundreds of millions of venture capital money.

So is the Bloom Box truly a disruptive technology, as some commentators have gushed? Well, not being a scientist, all I can say is, if the Bloom Box truly is as scalable as its founder, K.R. Sridhar, says it is, we could well be on our way to energy independence.

Here's how it works. The Bloom Box is actually full of modules that are about twice the size of your fist. Each module contains a fuel cell about as slim as a cracker. The fuel cell operates by oxygen flowing through one side--fuel on the other--resulting in a chemical reaction that creates electricity. One of these cells can power a light bulb. One module full of these cells can fuel an apartment; two can power the average-sized American home. It's a marvelous example of why space exploration and military spending are a GOOD thing, despite what those on the left may say--Sridhar, a former NASA advisor, originally designed this fuel cell to create oxygen for a potential space mission to Mars. After NASA scrapped that project, he re-engineered the cell, designing it to have oxygen flow into the cell and react with fuel.

Bloom Energy has plenty of high-voltage support. John Doerr of Kleiner Perkins, who was involved with the funding of Netscape, Amazon, and Google, is one of Bloom Energy's most enthusiastic promoters. Its clients include eBay (are you listening, Meg Whitman?), Google, FedEx, and Wal-Mart. Arnold Schwarzenegger and Larry Page attended today's launching ceremony. Colin Powell is on Bloom's Board of Directors.

Of course there are naysayers. Right now these boxes are so expensive that only large enterprises can afford them. Some have criticized Sridhar for being overly secretive of this technology. Others say that if the Bloom Boxes were so great, companies like GE would have figured them out by now.

My instinct tells me that if large firms, especially Wal-Mart, are investing in this technology, they are on to something. As I have always insisted, clean technology will only succeed if it is scalable and cost-effective. As more companies invest and Bloom Energy can bring the cost down, the potential for these boxes is huge. Remote villages off of the grid would have electricity. Utilities could purchase these for their substations. And since these boxes can work with any potential energy source, operating them off of America's natural gas reserves until alternative sources of energy become cheaper will wean us away from fossil fuels. Then you have the smart grid contraptions . . . we may be on to something!

If we could have these boxes stacked here and there instead of sprawling solar farms, we have other benefits, too--more open space, for example.

I'm excited. Maybe you will be, too, after you watch this link that my friend in Denmark sent me.

What do you think? Is this truly the holy grail of clean energy? I welcome your thoughts.

A journey ends, one begins: the career shift

Leon Kaye — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 09:11:54 +0000

I am about to return from Brazil. It's been a trip long in the making, and I am glad I had this opportunity to visit this country once again.

And as this journey ends, another one begins.

My interest in sustainability dates back far into my childhood, and I have been deeply vested in such issues since the early 1990s. It has only been in the last year, however, when I have decided to pursue this passion full time. It has been a fantastic ride: I have met a lot of great people, connected with professionals who have taught me a lot (and vice versa), and I had the opportunity to work on some great projects. Also in May, I started to write down my thoughts, which started out using the free Blogger software, and by June, landed here. GreenGoPost.com has been a great way to explore the issues in which I deeply believe, and through it, I have been touched by many people: the engineering graduate student in Buenos Aires, the sportswear designer in the UK, and the woman who moved back to Iowa after living in California for years are just a few of the stories I have been able to share.

So I have had stellar experiences, but pardon the pun if I dare say that in the big picture . . . the work I have been able to do has not been entirely sustainable.

The past few months I have begun to pursue a return to the corporate world. After all, I do have many years of experience in business-to-business (B2B) sales, international business, product training, and after I finished my MBA, some time in the world of management consulting. But like many people I know who have sparkling credentials, years of experience, networking, and rigorous pursuit of a dream does not always pan out the way you may have expected. Larger forces are at work: for about 2 million jobs there are 15 million applicants, and now, reality is setting in. Now it's time for me to ramp it up.

It seems to me that the way to go about this is to contribute to the world of sustainability on evenings and weekends, or on coast-to-coast flights! I want to think that someone who has lived and conducted business abroad, worked with large corporations and professional services firms, and the ability to learn a product or technology on the fly and actually be able to explain it, will be a strong fit somewhere. Surely there's a place that has a product or service that needs someone who can sell and evangelize it here in the USA, and hopefully, abroad . . . and if they are open to having someone serve as their Chief Sustainability Officer in his spare time, dare I say they have their man.

This site will not be going away. I still will try to post three or four days a week. The pride I take in GGP is that I'm not just a "blogger" . . . I never want to rant and rave, I do the most thorough research I can, and I try to talk about events or trends that may follow under the radar . . . which is why I refrained from the "Top 10 Things To Be Green" type stuff that you can find anywhere. My views are a little different: I don't bash "Big Oil" cause there are plenty of folks who do that well--and besides, don't be surprised if "Big Oil" eventually has a huge role in renewable energy. I don't trash China because they will play a much larger role in this revolution than many of us realize. Finally, I don't slam corporations because it is my sincere belief that if these transformative technologies take off, they have to be scalable and profitable: and smart, hard-working business leaders will lead the charge.

Profit and sustainability do not have to be mutually exclusive. I will continue to beat this drum.

But it's time to beat the drum even more through doing more information interviews, networking, applying, and interviewing even more.

If you have any thoughts or suggestions, or want to help me out by being a guest poster, feel free to contact me!

Day in the Garden

Leon Kaye — Sat, 20 Feb 2010 20:39:50 +0000

I will write more later, but I have to gush over the tropical garden we got to visit that is behind the ice cream shop here in Mangue Seco. The owner's daughter gave us the private tour: several varieties of mango, star fruit, pinha, hibiscus, coconut palms, even a pomegranate tree. But the star was the pitanga--small like a cherry tomato, ridged like a minature pumpkin, and tastes exuding persimmon, tomato, mango, and even a slight, briny, astringent taste. It was heaven. I'll post photos when I return home. Do I have to return home?