Bosnia’s Fruitful Food Future

Driving through Bosnia, even through early winter, offers a window on this mountainous country’s bounty.  Visit the bustling Markale Market in downtown Sarajevo, ground zero for some of the civil war’s worse atrocities, and you can see the results:  luscious pomegranates glistening like jewels; heaps of dried herbs ready to be brewed for whatever ailment currently plagues you; enormous Jurassic-like squash that be to be slow cooked into a soup or pastry filling; shelves of snowy white cheese and heart stopping (literally, not figuratively) kajmak, a heavy  or “clotted” cream that puts all condiments to shame.  Mushrooms that would make any Michelin-rated chef drool; citrus bursting with that perfect balance of sweet and acid; pears boasting a beauty in the lack of a typical pear shape--and that is just in late fall and winter.

During my chat in Sarajevo, I had a delightful conversation with Nerka Jugo Ahmic, a consultant who had a long career advising large multinational organizations and has now been on her own for 10 years.  Like many Bosnians, she is aware of the issues that face her country, while enthusiastic of what her country has offered over the years, and what Bosnia could contribute to the global economy in the  future.

Small countries in the Balkans, like Bosnia and its 3.5 million people, will never be able to compete with the massive scale of India and China; subsidies or mass capacity in agricultural giants like Canada, the USA, Brazil, and Western Europe also decimate any hope for Bosnian farmers gaining a decent price point for their produce.

So Bosnian farmers should not compete.  The opportunity to build wealth for Bosnia’s people lie in niche,, organic, and  high value products.  Bosnia has unique varieties of berries that could be rendered into jams or preserves; mushrooms could be dried and sent west to chefs, both professional and for the foodie-types; stone fruit could be dried and could do well in a large chain like Trader Joe’s, which is always searching for new products from around the world.  And elixirs, from herbal brews to Herzegovina wines, offer potential to consumers who want something new, different, exotic, or healthy.

Fair trade could also boost the farmers’ bottom line.  Bosnia has a respectable health care system and decent roads in much of the country.  But rural areas, which generally lag by any metric in most countries, could gain from a small premium.  With a fair price, farmers could invest in technology that could help boost yields; roads could be improved; scholarships could be set for younger people to study agricultural sciences.

The trick is to convince farmers to organize and “collectivize,” which is sometimes a dirty word in this region; as Nerka explained,  however, this is already occurring.  The trick is to find that sweet spot, establish an effective distribution system, and brand a few products, like Merlot to Argentina or feta to Greece.

After seeing Bosnia’s countryside, sampling their produce, and spending time with its people, it is very tempting to move back and set up shop.  Anyone willing to partner up?