Angel’s Fright

It's a simple technology, but there's something magical about a funicular, no matter where you are in the world. Emanating from the Latin word for rope, a funicular is simply an inclined railway in which two cars, connected by a cable, move up and down a steep hillside, with the weight of each car counter-balancing each other. The most famous one is probably Hong Kong's Peak Tram, but my favorite include the two charming funiculars in Italy's medieval city, Bergamo; Istanbul's sleek modern line connecting Kabata? and Taksim; but the best, by far, are the several romantically creaky hillside trams that line Chile's bohemian seaside port, Valparaíso. Surprisingly, I ran into another one yesterday in downtown LA, Angel's Flight. Shocking, I know, as rail in LA seem to make as much sense as . . . palm trees and snow.

  Angel's Flight dates back to 1901, when the growing city needed convenient transport from Bunker Hill down the steep slope to what was then downtown Los Angeles. Back then, Bunker Hill was a residential district full of Victorian homes. Over time, sadly, those Victorians turned into flop houses, and in the late 1960s, developers transformed the area into the collection of skyscrapers that form the city's downtown. Thankfully, the rails and cars were mothballed after Angel's Flight closure with the expectation that the line eventually would be resurrected; that did not occur until 1996.

  Unfortunately, a defective gear and drive system caused one of the cars to skid down the hill in 2001, killing an elderly man and injuring several others. The NTSB became involved, litigation ensued, and the reopening has been delayed. Clearly the City is being cautious: the workers testing the cars were looking quite serious, probably aware that another tragic accident cannot occur.

  Odds are that the railway will open April 15. I was walking down Grand between 3rd and 4th when voila, City workers were testing the rails. The distance is only about 2 blocks to hill street, but it looks much farther. The trip will cost a quarter. Those afraid of heights or easily suffer nosebleeds need not apply. Hopefully Angel's Flight will give southern Californians one more reason to venture downtown, an area full of good eats, charming pockets of architecture, and shopping as close to a third world experience as you can get.

  I cannot wait. Watching Angel's Flight in action made me feel like a kid. Or at least a genuine urban hipster.