A Tango for the Soul

One of the great delights of visiting Argentina is going to a milonga, or tango hall.  I'm not talking about a tango show--there are plenty of those that cater to tourists, and sure, they are a hoot, but the best way to experience the Argentine soul is to visit a smoke-filled milonga late at night.  I visited them in Córdoba, Mendoza, Rosario, and yes, of course, BA, and they are a treat.  You'll watch folks of all ages dance during a tanda, grab refreshments during a cortina, and before you know it, it may be past 3:00 a.m.  When visiting Argentina, you'll see announcements in local papers, or ask your hotel or hostel wherever you are staying in Argentina.  Some offer lessons, and this is a great way to meet locals or fellow travelers.  Ask a local about all the rules and nuances--far beyond the scope of this posting!

 

The tango song that stays with me the most, judging by the five versions I have on my iPod is Como dos extraños (Like Two Strangers).  Like many tango songs, it is melancholy and tugs at the soul.  Jose Maria Contursi, one of the most esteemed tango song writers, wrote the lyrics in 1940.  The story goes that Contursi overheard a waiter tell the story about a lost love.  Inspired to find her, he traveled from Buenos Aires to Córdoba, only to find that the poor woman was a convenience store clerk, a mere shadow of her former self.  Despondent, he tells the story to his friends.  I suppose anyone that goes back to his or her hometown or school, finding it a mere smudge compared to the memories shared about that chapter in one's life, could relate to this story.  It's how I feel when I see a building that clearly was once glorious allowed to fall into decay . . . and perhaps even slated for demolition.

 

Here are the lyrics in Spanish, then English:

 

Loneliness intimidated me
and the enormous fear of dying far from you...
Great was my desire of crying
feeling close to me
the jeer of reality!
And the heart begged me
to look for you and give it your love...
My heart was asking for it
and then I looked for you
believing you were my salvation...

And now that I am in front of you
we seem,as you can see,two strangers...
The lesson that I have finally learned:
Is how years make things change!
Anguish of knowing illusion an faith
were already dead...
I´m sorry if you see me weeping...
Memories have done me wrong!

The light of the sun turned pale
when it listened to your cold conversation...
Our love was so different
and it hurts to realize
that everything, everything ended.
What a great mistake to see you again
to take away my shattered heart!
They are thousand ghosts,
returning to mock me
the hours of that dead past...